Re: [MV] CUCV alternator light turning on when started

From: James Shanks (n1vbn@bit-net.com)
Date: Fri Jan 14 2000 - 22:59:45 PST


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Brian,

        Just remember that if the idiot light in the dash will not come on
it possibly is burned out. The current to supply the fields in the
alternator to create power so as to be selfexciting comes through the itty
bitty idiot dash light. Light not lit with ignition on and engine yet to be
started? The alternator will NOT charge until you replace the dash light as
the circuit to feed power to the fields is broken by the itty bitty light
filament. I would replace the dash light first...I know it's a pain to
replace but presuming power is at the ignition side of the light socket all
you'd need to do is put in a new one. Kindly let us know what you find
please.

James Shanks
The Line Below is my Ham Radio Callsign
n1vbn@bit-net.com
The line below is my Ham Radio Packet Address
n1vbn@N1VBN @ WB1DSW.NH.USA.NOAM

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Tait <rtait@earthlink.net>
To: Military Vehicles List <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] CUCV alternator light turning on when started

>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>Brian,
>I just went through this. In my case it was alternator #2, which is the
lamp on
>the right and the alternator on the side near the batteries. Several days
before
>it "went", I noticed that the generator #2 light flashed briefly when
driving at
>night and the engine returned to idle, such as when pulling up to a stop
sign.
>
>Alternator #2 is the 12 to 24 voltage source, while alternator #1 (driver's
side)
>is 0 to 12 volts. Take a voltmeter and check the voltages at the terminals
of
>both of the batteries while the engine is running. You should get
something like
>13.8 to 14.6 volts. If you get less than 13.0 volts, that alternator is
not
>producing full voltage. Voltage can also be checked at the alternator
terminals,
>but be very careful not to short anything.
>
>My dash voltmeter was acting just like yours, high in the yellow zone. I
replaced
>alternator #2 and the voltmeter now goes mid green. When I last checked, I
was
>getting 14.2 volts at each battery. I am saving the old alternator to
rebuild for
>a spare. Generator #2 light is still out but I haven't taken apart the
dash to
>check the bulb.
>
>Good luck,
>Matt Tait
>Fullerton, CA
>
>F. Brian Mead wrote:
>
>> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm)
Pro*
>> Howdy list,
>> Ok, this should be an easy one for the gurus out there. My vehicle
>> is a 1984 M1009 CUCV Blazer. One of the alternator lights is not coming
>> on when I start the vehicle(sorry I can't remember if it's number one or
>> two, it's the one on the left). Ok I though DUH it's a dead lightbulb,
>> BUT the battery charge indicator is running lower than it used to. It's
>> staying right on the line between yellow & green. It used to stay
>> midway thru the green.
>> My problem is, the manual says what to do if the lights STAY on, but
>> not what to do if they never turn on. I'm gonna check the bulb
>> tomorrow. ( gotta replace a couple other bulbs anyway) but if it isn't
>> the bulb, what should be the next thing to check?
>> Last, a BIG preemptive THANK YOU to everyone on the list! I
>> couldn't have gotten this far without "y'all"!
>> BTW, I'm gonna be putting some photos of stencils of of CUCVs on my
>> website. I tried to get examples of all the variants & extras I could.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Brian Mead
>> Griffin, Ga
>>
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>
>
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