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----- Original Message -----
From: <LEEnCALIF@aol.com>
To: "Military Vehicles List" <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] Ferret fluids, etc.
> Hello Richard and listerians,
>
> I believe the engine (B-60 engine anyway) calls for non-detergent SAE 30
wt.
> oil, but you are saying detergent oil is good in the transfer case and
gear
> change box, right?
>
No, I am definitely not.
Transfer takes OEP (Oil, Extreme Pressure) 220 which is EP90, GL5 spec for
preference. This is probably detergent added, certainly it gets the muck
off you hands quite well.
Engine and gearbox take OMD (Oil, Mineral, Detergent) 110 which is detergent
SAE 30 to MIL 2104 suffix B when RR did the manual but C and D are around
now.
The B Range RR engines were well into the era of detergent oils, these oils
were actually in service use in 1942 and its well recorded in the Ford CMP
manual which defines the date and actual engine number first supplied with
"HD-30" "factory fitted". It defines a lengthy procedure to rigorously
flush earlier engines before using the HD-30 detergent types then in allied
use.
The first production B Range engines were made in 1948 with the B80 Mk 2A
for the Leyland Martian followed by B 60s for the Ferret, note these very
early engines were made with BSF thread forms. All engines up to Mk 4 were
BSF and these now are rarities, Mk 5 and later engines are all UNF as is
plainly cast in the rocker cover, this is not just a simple standardisation
exercise and NATO compliance, many detail changes were also incorporated to
afford even longer and brutal, Mil service life.
> Next, excellent tip on the diesel flush method. Using diesel to flush out
> gunk is a very old, but very reliable, safe method. Almost forgot about
it
> until you mentioned it. Worthy of consideration for anyone wishing to do
a
> safe clean up, even in engines.
>
Useful stuff red diesel ("cherryade").
> I've used a 50-50 mix of oil and diesel in engines and actually restored
one
> engine to near original compression after the rings had stuck and it was
> smoking. After a quick clean up, it quit smoking and ran just fine for
> another 60,000 miles. Owner was thrilled that he avoided an overhaul for
> about $10!
>
Dirt cheap, Californian home-brew, Magical Marvel Mystery Oil, cool.
> Note: Run engine at idle for about 8 to 10 minutes, then flush. If its
> really bad, repeat the process with a fresh mix.
>
Good trick, diesel gets everywhere, usually you can't keep it in if you want
to and makes a good flushing/penetrating/preserving mix. We keep a gallon
or two in the garage cleaning tray with some handy brushes for cleaning
smaller parts, bearings etc., and fog rusty, recovered, awaiting restoration
vehicles with it too before covering with a tarp. It stops any further
degradation and when you do get round to it years later most of the
fasteners have been pre-penetrated, needs a re-application about once a
year.
Richard
Southampton - England
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