Once upon a time, back before dirt, "hot rodders" used solder to "nose,
shave and french" their cars with "lead", or solder. Perhaps someone on the
list old enough to remember these thechniques would remember how they
prepped these "leaded" areas...
Ian Wallace, Older than Dirt...
1960 Ferret Mk 2/3
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Military Vehicles List [mailto:mil-veh@skylee.com]On Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 7:58 PM
> To: Military Vehicles List
> Subject: Re: [MV] Painting fuel tank question.
>
>
> Hi Gavin and List,
>
> You are probably having trouble with the solder. It is kind of
> like trying to paint galvanized sheet steel. The zinc is slick
> on the surface and the paint will peel off on its own. You have
> to treet galvanize with vinegar to get the surface to oxidise and
> give the paint tooth to grab a hold of. I think you can do the
> same with solder but some of the other guys here have probably
> dealt with this before and can shed some light on it.
>
> good luck,
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gavin Broad [SMTP:invest@portsmouth-mann.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 12:42 PM
> To: mil-veh@skylee.com
> Subject: [MV] Painting fuel tank question.
>
> Hi List,
>
> I painted my old M151 fuel tank some months ago and put a lot of
> preparation into the job. Back to bare metal and many layers of zinc
> primer and then normal base coats.
>
> Recently, the painted area along the seam where the neck is
> sweated to the
> tank body has creased, as if fuel was leaking through the neck seam and
> that was, indeed, my assumption.
>
> Then, yesterday, I was undercoating an NOS fuel tank, having
> rubbed it down
> and the paint has reacted in the same way in the same area.
>
> Question:
>
> Is there a reactive potential between the material used to attach
> the neck
> to the body (i.e. lead/solder/braze/weld) and certain types of paint?
>
> Thanks for any pointers here.
> Gavin
>
>
>
> "One-stop shopping for Life Assurance and Pensions"
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