WC53 Carryall Restoration Entry # 9 & 10

From: Chris (cdavis@webworldinc.com)
Date: Sun Mar 18 2001 - 21:39:02 PST


I spent Friday night pulling the gages out. It helps to take the cowl vent
out first. The wiring isn't all that bad back there. No problems to
report, just took time.

Saturday was slated for the removal of the wood floor. For anyone not
familiar with the Carryall, the floor in the back (behind the driver's and
front passenger's seats) is wood plank. Before I got to that I had a few
items to pull in the front section of the cab. The floor inserts, and kick
panels on both the driver's and passenger's side. I also removed the
winder mechanism covers from the front doors.

I then had to note the layout of the wood floor before I started tearing it
apart. I first tried to make a pattern by taping together a couple long
sheets of brown butcher paper to lay over the floor. My plan was to save
the time of measuring all the bits (ie - seat mounting hardware, frame
cutout cover panels, fuel sender unit access panel, skid strips, etc) by
doing a giant "rubbing" of the floor. Unfortunately it just didn't
work. The floor was too rotted in places, too warped in others and it
proved difficult to keep the pattern square with the sides of the truck. I
finally gave up on the idea and mapped things out with a tape measure and
pad of paper.

I then took the digital camera and took several reference shots of the floor.

Then I started taking the trim strips off the edges of the floor. These
are held in place by large screws and go through the metal trim piece, the
wood floor, a lower channel in the body and finally a captive nut that
secures them. I managed to get them all out by following this simple routine:

1) Wet down the top side screw and surrounding area with water from a spay
bottle.
2) Repeat for the same area under the truck.
3) Wire brush the exposed threads exiting the captive nut on the bottom.
4) Light the torch and apply heat to the captive nut until orange.
5) Turn off the torch, hurry top side (because it won't work if things cool
down at all) and use the impact driver to get the first turn or two on the
screw. Loosen the rest of the way with drill.
6) Put out smoldering wood with spay bottle.
7) Repeat steps 4 to 6 if you were not quick enough or you have a
particularly stubborn screw.

Soon I had a garage full of smoke and had to open up the doors for
ventilation. Other than that, the system worked well. I had one mishap
under the center of the truck. No, the Black Widow revenge squad didn't
jump me, but something else did.

One section of trim crosses behind the front seats. One of the retaining
screws exits almost directly over the drive shaft and transfer case
u-joint. Over the years grease from the u-joint and transfer case had been
slung onto the captive nut and surrounding area. I wire brushed as much as
I could off the nut and then proceeded with the torch. I worried for a
minute that the torch might light the grease, but it was more tar than
grease anymore and it wasn't going to ignite. But, while it didn't burn,
it did get soft, then semi-liquid, then it dripped... Right on my exposed
forearm! I quickly put down the torch, and tried to wipe this burning junk
off, only to succeed in smearing it down my arm. Ouch! Tarred, now where
are the feathers!

I took a break to clean up and avoid breaking anything, then proceeded,
being a little more cautious, to do the rest of the trim. It's all off,
but I'm having trouble with the four large flat headed clevis bolts that go
through the frame. They just turn, with no way to hold the top. I guess
my only option is to cut the wood away from them. Which will be a job
for Monday.

Gordon, If you are still following along, you posted the following last
year on the WWII Dodge forum:

1. Save all the floor surround bolts when stripping it.
2. Save or replace all the surrounding trim.
3. Reinforce / reweld the cross bearers as necessary.
4. Fix the cab rear floor solidly before starting.
5. Pull the fuel tank (for access to seat bolts)
6. Use cheap 3/4" thick wood (was originally white Oak)
7. Don't use kiln dried timber (or let it breath first)
8. Leave it loose if you expect it to take up moisture.
9. Build from each side towards the centre.
10. Insert last strip at skid strip joint.
11. Drill up through captive nuts to position keyplates.
12. Cut skid strip grooves and holes as last operation.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Chris Davis
MVPA# 20000
Lake Forest, CA
'42 WC53 Carryall
'66 M274A2 Mule



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