>If I follow your line of reasoning the U S Army Mechanics are idiots
True.Many are, but there are some that aren't.Keep one thing in mind.Good
mechanics isn't really taught anymore.Most are taught to pull and replace
parts and not to figure out what caused the problem in the first place and
correct the problem first,then the damage caused by the problem.I have first
hand experience as to what comes from the repairs from the military and for
the better part it is nothing to write home about.Lets face it.To be an army
mechanic is a job and that's it.You are taught army procedure whether it be
correct or not.This is not for you to question as a mechanic.Also there are
times when only certain parts are to be used because of contracts and
payoffs that don't neccessarily meet the proper specs.
= for I
>have M35 direct from DRMO that will not have brakes one time and will the
>next --No leaks, Master cylinder full, just one time you get in truck and
>pedal goes to floor next time is as it should be --- some times "next time"
>is two hours or maybe two days or even two weeks.
> Went to military base to Motor Pool talked to 7 fellows in motor pool,
>they ALL, even motor pool Sgt. and Captain that was over the pool, and
>civilians that work in pool ---- drain Silicone out blow lines dry, run DOT
>through system drain blow dry again --- this means take all wheel cylinders
>and master cylinders apart, enough to empty them. he suggested that I put
>alcohol through lines last time and use ether to blow them out. This will
>get all the water out of lines.
If you want to do this one properly here is where I would start.Each and
every piece of rubber in this braking system-cups,o rings, rubber
lines,seals etc.Find out who the manufactuerer is and ask them if they are
compatible with silicone brake fluid and which type because there are more
than one.Get the SAE spec.
All you need is one non compatiable piece and there is your reason not to
use it unless there is a replacement upgrade.Also what metals are used and
what reaction is there to the fluid.
It sounds to me that you would be safer to use DOT 4.Obviously there is
something not right, be it the brand or grade of silicone or some
incompatibility of parts.Some one didn't do their research.
>
>And as for Synthetic Oil -= I worked for a Major oil company almost 15 years
>and was responsible for several pieces of trucks and off road equipment --
>they said DO NOT put synthetic in anything.
I would be interested in who this company is.
If you do NOT use synthetic oils up north in the arctic then your equipment
will have more problems, if even work at all.Again you need to do the
research.Redline is recommended by Porsche,Rovers North(a genuine LR outlet)
recommends Amsoil,BMW has some stuff it recommends too(can't remember the
name but really pricey blue stuff)and even Ford is using a semi-synthetic in
their trucks.
>
>My qualifications do not approach professional -- I just had to see that the
>stuff would operate as it should
>
>My .25 cents worth
Andre
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Wed Apr 04 2001 - 08:10:48 PDT