The all important test when considering the purchase of Saracen, Saladin or
Stalwart is to make sure the final drives are lined up. You can do this by
ensuring that the oil filler plugs on each hub down either side of the
vehicle are pointing at the same imaginary hour of the clock on each hub.
If they are not and one hub has its drain plug in a different relative
position it will be broken. Be prepared for immediate complicated and
expensive repairs if you want to have a 6x6 drive. (the plugs can be in
different relative positions on either side so long as they line up when you
look down any one side).
All this series are prone to band wear in the transmission - particularly in
1st and 2nd gears resulting in a 'slipping clutch' feeling. Start the
vehicle and make sure it pulls in 1st and 2nd. If it doesn't pull in any of
the gears, leave it in that gear and pump the change pedal 10 times (would
be the clutch pedal on any other vehicle). The bands are self adjusting when
you pump the pedal. If you still don't get any drive it will be gearbox out
and replace the band to fix the problem.
Cheers. Mike S. RR Services Ltd. UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Notton" <Richard@fv623.demon.co.uk>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] Saracen questions
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mblair1@home.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 2:29 AM
> Subject: [MV] Saracen questions
>
>
> >
> > Hi, folks. Today I got to climb around in a Saracen that's going on
> > the auction block tomorrow (Sunday 5/13, that is).
> >
> Its a big lump of armoured hardware and you would be wise to be fully
> prepared for some serious engineering further down the line, having said
> that its not exactly common like most of the stuff we see on the list and
> NAPA wont hand out new parts over the counter.
>
> > I do not know what version of the Saracen this vehicle is. It appears
> > to be in very good condition. One of the other folks crawling through
> > it started the engine, but was unable to make the vehicle move.
> >
> Likely the transfer box was in neutral.
>
> > Is the pedal on the left side of the driver's position a gear-change
> > pedal like on a Ferret, rather than a clutch pedal?
> >
> It is exactly like a Ferret transmission wise.
>
> > The pedal on the left side pushes all the way to the floor board
> > without resistance other than the return spring. How bad is this? Is
> > there a common failure mode like this that you Saracen experts would
> > suspect before examining the vehicle more closely?
> >
> Being the gear change pedal it would.
>
> > There's a big lever on the right side of the driver's position which
> > has a thumb button. Is that a parking brake?
> >
> It is. I cannot remember if this operates like the Stalwart where you
> ratchet the brake on with many full strokes (5 at least) and just the
handle
> end is firmly pushed down to have the brake fly off with a loud clunk.
>
> > Just in case I manage to win the beast and need to drive it, or at
> > least get it into neutral and release any brakes for loading onto a
> > trailer, can anybody out there clue me in on how to operate it? I.e.,
> > how to start it, put it in gear and take it out of gear, etc.
> >
> It would seem to be an easy starter as the RR B Range engines usually are,
i
> n milder climates just kick the accelerator a couple of times to load the
> manifold with a bit of fuel and hit the button.
>
> Like a Ferret you must have the transfer box in forward or reverse BEFORE
> starting, the drag on the torque converter means if started in neutral you
> will not engage forward or reverse without grinding all the teeth off the
> transfer. When running, firmly and with determination shift the transfer
> from either position, a momentary delay in going through neutral will
> necessitate stopping the engine as the transfer spins up.
>
> Then select a gear, depress the pedal and release, push the gas to go.
>
> > Are the three wheels on each side rigidly geared together like on a
> > Stalwart? If so, is this a big problem for driving on dry pavement?
> >
> They are.
> It is slightly lighter than a Stalwart and the tyres are smaller too, this
> puts less of a load on the transmission but it still needs matched tyres,
> being around its designed weight the suspension is set with the wheel
drive
> shafts almost level which also helps tracta joint wear, the Stalwart has
to
> cope between unladen and loaded.
>
> Saracens would not be driven greatly on hard surfaces being an "armoured
> car" whereas the Stalwart was, to the mil, "a truck".
>
> > Does it use tube-type tires? This one had 12.00x20 tires with wavy
> > non-directional treads.
> >
> It should have T24 run flat types and are likely marked R.F.H.S.2. These
> have the "S" pattern and internally have a massive, hard rubber bead
> spreader that you will never likely get out and we have no idea how they
are
> put in, it will have a smaller tube inside too. You'll likely find by
> taking a gauge to the Schrader valves that they have no air pressure in
them
> at all.
>
> > How hard is it to get parts in the US?
> >
> Pass.
>
> > In particular, one of the wheel studs is broken off. Is that something
> > I might be able to find at a local auto or truck parts store?
> >
> Doubtful, parts are easy here of course although it usually means a day
out
> to a scrapyard and some heavy DIY work.
>
> > I was unable to traverse the turret. Is it power-driven, or is it just
> > turned by hand? There's a circular bar under the turret ring which
> > rotates an inch or two, and appears to apply a brake to keep the
> > turret from turning. Is my guess correct? The machine gun mount was
> > present, and elevated and depressed easily.
> >
> Pass.
>
> > Are there any potential problems getting one of these beasts
> > registered, and legally driving it on the road, particularly in
> > California?
> >
> Definitely pass.
>
> > Does the Saracen have any amphibious capabilities?
> >
> No.
> Unprepared it will ford 787mm, prepared 1066mm and with a fording plate
> 1981mm.
>
> > Are there any specifications available on-line, such as dimensions,
> > weight, speed, fluid requirements, etc.?
> >
> Don't know. I can give you those knowing the actual model or an average
as
> they don't vary a lot.
>
> Fluids are easy, engine OM110 - SAE 30 detergent or SAE 40 detergent in CA
> heat, torque converter OM13 mineral hydraulic oil - ISO 15 hyd. oil.
> Gearbox SAE 30 ONLY. Transfer, bevel boxes, hub reductions all OM220 -
SAE
> 90 EP preferably GL5 spec.
>
> The steering and brakes likely have OM 13, if brake fluid is used in the
> brakes intended for OM 13 you have serious problems, the steering and
brakes
> are pressurised from a single hydraulic pump, there are two huge warning
> lights to denote low brake and steering pressure, check the hydraulic
> receivers as these are 2,500psi bombs if rusted.
>
> > Does anybody have any information about typical radio installations in
> > the Saracen? This one has cables and junction boxes which suggest that
> > it had radios in it at one time, but I don't know what type(s) it
> > might have had, or where they might have been installed.
> >
> It could be Larkspur or a later Clansman fit.
>
> Also check if it is reverse flow engine cooled, this is obvious as the
front
> has a metal plate over the rad grille and will blow air from the sides,
the
> hood will have two substantial beehive boxes on it for the air intake and
> there will be no small, square, built-up exhaust vents running either side
> of the "cab".
>
> Richard
> Southampton - England
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jun 05 2001 - 23:18:33 PDT