Matt,
>Hello, I'm new to the list and I just wanted to say hi and ask if anyone had
>any kind of pictures of a 50 or 51 M38. I just got my Jeep about 2 weeks ago,
>and so far I've just gotten it torn down to the frame.
Congrats. I have two MB's and a 46 CJ-2a all of which are pretty similar to
your M38.
> I've ordered a manual,
>but it hasn't arrived yet?
Get all of them, including parts manuals. Not a bad idea to get the
civilian manuals that cover the CJ-2A and CJ-3A also. There are
differences, like yours is 24V for example, but you may find that certain
proceedures may be described better in one or the other.
> Can you tell me how in the heck I can remove the
>brake hubs?
Which ones? Front, rear, or are you talking about the parking brake?
To take the fronts off you need a spindle nut wrench, I think it's 2-3/32"
hex. No point in borrowing or renting, just go buy one, your going to be
using it every now and then for the rest of it's life. The rears need a
puller that bolts to 3 of the 5 studs then you wack the spinner thing with a
hammer which will pop the hub off of the tapered end of the axle (I'm
assuming that the M38 still has the tapered axle shafts, I don't know that
for a fact, do you have a small hub cap, like the front has, on the rear axle?)
>Also, what basic parts would you recommend replacing at the frame
>stage? So far, I'm thinking of the following:
>
>Brake lines & hoses
>brake pads
I'd replace all the wheel cylinders as well. I got some for one of my MB's
last summer, I think they were $12 each or something like that. Also
replace master cylinder, they are cheap also and not worth rebuilding unless
it is clean and rust free to start with.
>Differential seals
Definetly remove the covers and flush out the diff unit, replace the seal
and cover gasket. There are also seals at the hubs (front) and on the axle
shafts (rear) that should be changed. While the pinion and diff carrier
bearings do eventually wear out and get pitted etc, they will last along
time, I guess I would still inspect them in place. I would replace the
wheel bearings or at least do a thourough inspection. Speaking of the front,
that is a real can of worms. Take the knuckles all apart and make sure
everything is ok and make sure it has all been assembled correctly. There
are alot of parts up there that often need replacing, spindle sleeve
bearing, axle shaft/joints, knuckle seals, king pin bearings, wheel
bearings, seals, etc. There's also a pair of seals inside the tubes near
the diff carrier. I did a complete overhaul of my MB front axle over the
winter, turned out very nice but I replace alot of parts, but what do you
want for a 58 year old jeep that was never greased?
>wheels
Something wrong with the wheels?
>tires
And tubes.
>speedometer hose (comes off transmission)
Pull out the center cable and clean it and flush the inside of the outer
jacket. If they look ok then there is no need to replace them, just lube
them up and reuse.
>spring bushings (missing)
Definitely, also replace the shackles. Check the springs for cracked leaves
also. New shocks. Check the U bolts for corrosion or stretching, if they
are questionable, then replace.
>I am starting by sandblasting and painting the frame. Any suggestions?
Make sure it is straight and not twisted, humped or bent. My CJ-2 had all
the above, nothing a frame shop can't undo however. If it was used for snow
plowing, study the front of the frame and as far back as the rear of the
front spring mounts very carefully. I have another frame that was actually
buckled in that area. I like epoxie primer but it is not convenient to use
and it's expensive. I'd go to an automotive paint shop and get name brand
stuff that the pro's use.
> I then
>plan to mount an original Willys-Overland 4 Cycl. Flat-head (after rebuilding
>it),
Been there. Had to scrap the first block I rebuild after finding an
internal crack in the distributor hole. If the block has been welded or
repaired, study it VERY carefully before putting any money in it. I also
have had bad luck with general automotive type engine rebuilders/shops.
After that I went to an engine shop that only does Diesel, truck,
industrial, and antique engines (no car stuff), they are much more carefull
and knowledgable. I know I pay more but I also have a much better feeling
that they do it right, not to mention that I have not had any problems
since. After all, this thing is 50 years old, you want people to be working
on it that are used to vintage stuff.
> followed by re-mounting the body, which needs significant rust repair.
>Any comments are appreciated!
One of my MB's needs some floor repair. Last summer I bought a complete
repro front floor assembly with all the ribs and part of the firewall and
all the holes etc.. It cost $450 but it will save an immense amount of
time. Pretty much every piece of sheet metal should be available as a
reproduction.
What else? Geee's that's an open ended question, a guy could write a book
about it. I say just take the plunge, get started and see what happens. No
matter how hard you plan and how much time you spend doing it, the project
will never end up like you thought. That's what makes it fun, an adventure!
best of luck,
je
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jun 05 2001 - 23:18:35 PDT