FWIW... while playing replace the outer oil seals and brake shoes on my
M35A2 ( front rear axle so far), I discovered that the mechanic (at least
the last one who worked on this axle, since the locking washer had been bent
over 3 times in 17K miles on both sides) had installed the inner nuts finger
tight and the outer ones broke loose with barely any torque applied with a
pair of 15 inch water pump pliers. I don't have the specified 3" inch 1/2"
drive socket, but will get one tomorrow.
Now the 209 series manuals tell ya to do the "tighten till drag is felt
and then back off a 1/6th of a turn or so" and crank on the outer nut.
The 361 series says to torque the inner nut to 50 ft. lb. and back off
1/6th to 1/4 turn and the outer nut to 100-200 ft.lbs. (hell of a range,
eh?).
Both sides had the little cork wedges in place between the seal and
bearing, and the right side had a second cork wedge in the keyway between
the outside seal and the locking ring and under the inner nut (???).
Supposedly, this truck went into grass field storage in 89 or so and was
pulled in for "storage maintenance" in 94, then back into the grass until
last summer when it went to DRMO.
Any Motor pool types out there that can shed some light when rear hubs
would be pulled and inspected (time/mileage intervals) or what would trigger
this type of PM?
And for the rest of you M35A2 owners, you might just wanna pull those
hubs if you haven't yet for a look see. Lord knows what ya might find.
Ron
PS I ordered the cork wedges by NSN from Memphis, but they sent me "L"
shaped pieces of rubber for $.80 each or so. There ain't NO WAY these can be
used without a lot of razor work. I will probably go the Chevy 350 cid
rubberized cork valve cover gasket way suggested by a list member (cut your
own) and follow up with a dab of RTV to cover all bases. Comments?
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