I own a PE95-K, and I have used it to power the house on occasion. If
you look at the schematic, you will see that there are 2 separate
windings on the stator. They are 110 v. each. If you wire these in
series, you get 220v. If you bring a lead from the center tap and call
it neutral, you will have 220v. 3 wire single phase. In other words, you
have what amounts to a 50 amp. service. This is what I did to connect it
to the house wiring - start with a watthour meter that will plug into
your meter box on the house. Gut the meter out, leaving ONLY the base
with the 2 LOWER blade connectors. These will plug into the box at the 2
LOWER receptacles and feed the house. Make up a connecting lead to the
genset using 6/3 direct burial cable. Connect the cable at the generator
end as follows: Red to one 220 terminal. Black to the other. The white
goes to the center tap. At the meter box the red and black go to the
blade connectors and the white is grounded to the box. When you lose
power, just unplug the meter, plug in the meter base, connect the
neutral wire to the ground terminal you have put in the meter box, and
you are ready to go. The PE-95 is very underrated in terms of current
capacity - in fact, there is a throttle stop screw that limits throttle
opening. The Jeep engine is capable of almost 50 hp. and they have
choked it down to less than half that amount. I am sure that if you back
off on this screw, you will be able to put a higher than normal
transient load (motor start) as long as it is only temporary.
kuhrick wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> An alternative is to create a "sub-panel" of just the essential
>> circuits. In
>> my house, these are the fridge, furnace, water pump, and a few lights
>> in the
>> central area of the house. These together are fed by a 100-amp
>> panel. The
>> generator cross-over switch isolates this sub-panel. Therefore I
>> only needed
>> a 100 amp switch. They are not nearly as expensive as stated. A
>> 200-amp one
>> is around $400. My 100-amp one was a dumpster find from a demolition
>> site.
>> It is not automatic, or complicated. Just a 2-pole, double throw
>> switch,
>> with constant neutral. a p bloom
>
> dont for get any sub feed panel has to be 3-4 wire 3 qirw if
> 129 4 wire if 140 volt
> neutral must be sep. from ground
> or the ground will be hoter than is safe email me for more info
> the rest dont need to read my spelling
>
>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Dec 07 2001 - 00:36:30 PST