Ronzo
Without looking at the physical parts you have I am only
speculating and offering suggestions based on prior experience.
Read having to fight with things also in my past...
I'm going to get real basic here not to offend but to maybe
catch a oh shiter ..In most vehicles there is a difference
between the leading and trailing brake shoe.. More so there
is a difference between the front and rear sets of shoes since
typically 70 % of the breaking stop power in performed by the
fronts.
If any of the wheels have the original brakes still installed
check the width and length size of the shoe. Check the pad size
in relation to the shoe.. It may be as simple as you have the
front shoes on the rear end or the shoes reversed on the backing
plate (leading vs trailing reversed).
Originals vs replacements.. You also may be onto something here
Many refurbish / aftermarket vendors will put extra thickness to
their pads in order to compensate for the drum (rotor) being
turned to a larger diameter (drum) or reduced thickness (rotor),
which is standard procedure for a brake job..
There used to be a fellow from Hudson Mass who had a mobile
brake shop in a van truck.. Back in the race car days we would
call him to come out to the shop. He would measure the exact
diameter of the drum and then cam grind the shoes to fit that
diameter of that brake drum. That way we could back the shoe
off for zero drag but it gave max contact when applied..
So if you don't find a lead to trail or front to rear problem,
you may want to call around to the local brake shops and
see if one will match grind your shoes to the diameter of
each brake drum..
If that doesn't cure it, If I remember right you have replaced
the wheel cylinders.. If so hopefully you have bleed the system
yet.. Pull a piston from the replacement cylinders and compare
them to ones that you took off. If their bigger / longer well
thats self explainitory on why the shoes don't retract all the
way as before.. It would not be the first time I've seen after-
market shoes or cylinders be different from the originals in that
some vendors will sell parts as fits all when they really don't
unless you custom fit em ..
Let us know how it turns out ...
BB
>From: "Ron" <rojoha@mediaone.net>
>To: <mil-veh@mil-veh.org> (Military Vehicles Mailing List)
>Subject: [MV] M35A2 Brake problems ( STILL )
>Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 08:54:43 -0500
>
> Still have high spots on the NOS shoes with drag on wheels.
>
> I have been told that I have to have the NOS brake shoes that I bought
>for my truck, "Cam ground" to match the drums of each wheel and thus stop
>the dragging. I am new to playing with big stuff. The manuals do not
>mention
>this step. I would think if you had your old shoes "relined" that this
>would
>be necessary since it would be a generic lining material, but factory
>manufactured,vehicle specific, for field replacement, issue parts? Cam
>grinding appears to require the drums to be separated from the hubs, or
>risk
>damage to the bearing cones, and then keeping the pads and drums together
>after grinding. Also, no mention is made of trailing or leading shoes in
>the
>manuals, and they do not appear to be different. Are they?
> Another suggestion said that since I had about half of the original
>meat
>left on the removed pads, the replacement pads are too thick because the
>drums have not worn down enough (17k original miles). I do not think the
>drums wear appreciably as long as you have lining to wear off, but becomes
>a
>different issue if you have the backing plates rubbing metal to metal.
> At this point, I am leaning toward a right angle grinder to take off
>the
>high spots on these shoes ( or some C4). What an aggravating pain in the
>A**
>this "straight forward" seal job has become.
> How does that old saw go? When your up to your ass in alligators, it's
>difficult to remember the original goal was to just drain the swamp.
>
>Opinions?
>Ron
>
>
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