Re: [MV] Ferret fluids... Re: [MV] [MVlist] Re: [MV] Deuce Transmission / Transfer case Fluid

From: Richard Notton (Richard@fv623.demon.co.uk)
Date: Sat Dec 08 2001 - 02:35:53 PST


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Gill" <rmgill@mindspring.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] Ferret fluids... Re: [MV] [MVlist] Re: [MV] Deuce Transmission
/ Transfer case Fluid

> At 11:36 PM -0600 12/7/01, Jon Shoop wrote:
> >Going to tackle a leaky torque converter...in a ferret soon...seems you
> >almost have to dismantle the damn thing....to get to the problem...
>
> Pull the engine or pull the transfer box/transmission. Tis a bit of a
> job from every thing I've read.
>
Yup, Jon S has a bit of a job on there.

Firstly you'd better find a source of actual British Army OM13 or commercial ISO
15 hydraulic oil ready for the refill and as I recall a couple of gallons may
well be needed.

I very much think you'll be heaving Mr Rolls and Mr Royce's B60 lump out of its
armoured nest.

Both ways are a bit of work, but probably better to pull the engine as the
gearbox selector linkages usually end up out of adjustment and are a pain to
re-sync; it doesn't work as you'd imagine and is wholly non-intuitive.

Two things seem to fail on the fluid flywheel (the British name for a torque
converter), either the gasket sealing the casing halves or the gearbox shaft
seal which finally lets go after 30 years of gritty crud falling down into its
inaccessible position.

You'll also have engine oil everywhere since everything Ferret usually involves
removing the oil cooler first. At least its unified so there's no new-world
struggle to find BSF/Whitworth spanners (wrenches) or wally everything with an
adjustable ! However, some of the very small stuff like carb linkages may well
be BA sizes which is going to cause some grief.

Suggest you join the Ferret yahoogroups list and do some brain-picking for the
detail.

We usually hear from over the pond that Ferrets are cute, that is, until they go
wrong. It is also most necessary to apply huge amounts of very basic
Anglo-Saxon language to help the job along, ensure youngsters and those of a
sensitive disposition are well out of earshot when you're working on it.

If you want to tart-up the B60 whilst its out, steam it off and loose the paint
on any of the alloy bits as they don't etch-prime them, apply the most evil
etch-primer you can, that aircraft watery yellow-green stuff (chromate) is
absolutely excellent and stuffed full of cyanide - be very careful. Then just
blow it all over with the spray gun as they did in manufacture at Austin Motors.
. . . . .Sorry, not all B60s were made by RR, if it has a five digit S/N its
Austin, four digit is RR; allegedly.

If its a very early engine its green (as are the insides of British radio truck
bodies) being Eau de Nil (Water of the Nile) BSC 216 and available from
International Paints as "Interlac Marine Enamel" (good stuff too) to their
internal paint code CLF 384.

Most likely its the (still current, as anybody who has had a peep in a
Challenger II engine bay can confirm) standard insipid blue called Sky Blue BSC
101, again the International Paints Interlac code is CLB 968.

Doubtless the US arm of International Paints can give you the standard US code
for it.

Richard
Southampton - England



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