From: Ron (rojoha@attbi.com)
Date: Tue Apr 02 2002 - 06:51:17 PST
Lets hear a BIG AMEN for brother Tom!
As Tom says "people who have and drive large deadly things like old
military trucks
really should get the manuals and read them." That should be changed from
should to HAVE TO.
Come on folks, before you move that beast you just got for $1500 from GL,
GET THE MANUALS!!!! They are readily available at every flea market I've
been to. I picked up 2 brand new, still in the cellophane -10's for the
M35A2 at the last MVMVC Flea for $10 each.
Then find a rabbi to help you along and hold your hand while you learn
the ropes. If you never driven a big truck, don't start with a DRMO turn in
and a set of plates for your new toy without manuals and a rabbi looking
over your shoulder to make sure it's safe to drive. It can kill someone, not
necessarily YOU.
If I didn't have a rabbi around when I first started my M35A2 the first
time, the runaway that resulted would have been terminal for my new toy (and
maybe me).
If you don't have the money to buy the manuals, DON'T BUY THE TRUCK! And
with the ETM Online site, you can download the manuals for FREE or go to one
of the guys who sell ALL the manuals on a CD for $15-25. There is no
excuse!!
Don't be the start of an M151 syndrome or a "Live at 5 Horror News
Story" for the M35A2 series. Cheap don't mean No Experience Needed.
A Horrified Ronzo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Bauer" <tomb@carr.org>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] M35A2 master cylinder question
> wade, this is not directed at just you, but.........
> people who have and drive large deadly things like old military trucks
> really should get the manuals and read them. most of these trucks are
> really easy to work on but you need some mechanical skill. i have this
> really bad feeling that a lot of people just get their trucks and drive
> them without ever checking the systems or doing routine maintenance. now
> as some of you already know but many are vague on, this is how it works.
> the main master cyl has a vent line going to the cover. remove the line,
> then remove the fill plug to check/add fluid. this master cyl pushes
> fluid to the booster where it does two things. it pushes behind the
> piston of the second master cyl so that the brakes will apply with no
> air. it also pushes a small piston that is part of a air pressure
> regulator. this controlled air pressure is applied to the large piston
> chamber that has a rod that runs forward and also pushes on the piston
> of the second master cyl providing 'power brakes' there is a bleeder on
> this unit and one at each wheel. pay attention to what kind of fluid
> your truck has in it. take a sample and try to mix it with water, if it
> mixes easily it is dot 3, if it does not mix it is silicone. the best
> thing to do when you get your vehicle is to flush out the system and
> replace the fluid. this way you know what is in there. remember this is
> a single circuit system. any one failure will produce no brakes.
> tom
>
>
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