From: Nathan Wilkens (nathan.wilkens@asu.edu)
Date: Wed Jun 19 2002 - 20:30:38 PDT
Here's a few things everyone should know about when dealing with Muriatic
Acid... But first let me say, this sounds like an excellent idea for
cleaning a tank (better than the rock idea)...
Muriatic Acid is hydrochloric acid (muriatic is the old "official" name for
hydrochloric acid).
It can be purchased nearly anywhere that sells swimming pool supplies
(including Home Depot, Lowes, and sometimes even Target, Kmart, or Walmart).
I imagine for most parts of the country it would be a seasonal thing (here
in Arizona I can get it all year round). Also, it's pretty darn cheap - I
think I paid $5 for two gallon jugs.
A few safety things to keep in mind - First, it will eat metal (that's why
it cleans a tank so well), but this includes your stainless steel sinks, and
metal drainpipes. It will also eat you! Wear eye protection and clothes
you plan on throwing away - if you spill some one yourself, you can quickly
rinse it off and you should only feel a minor stinging sensation (wearing
dishwashing gloves would be a good idea). It has the thickness of water, so
it's easy to splash a little on your clothes without realizing it, and it
will quickly eat a hole in them. I strongly recommend that you DO NOT pour
it down the drain. To dispose of it, just pour baking soda into it (a lot
of baking soda), and it will sizzle and give of smoke (harmless carbon
dioxide) and be neutralized to slightly salty water once the sizzling has
stopped (keep adding baking soda until the sizzling stops). Then you can
pour it down the drain (and then you would know your tank is cleaned and
acid removed). If you pour too much baking soda into your tank when
neutralizing the muriatic acid, it can be easily rinsed out with water (it's
super soluble in water)...
Anyway, I use muriatic acid on a pretty regular basis to dissolve silica
fossils out of limestone rocks (I'm a paleontologist when I'm not working on
my M1009), and have thrown away some clothes, and gotten stung a few times,
and my nice stainless steel kitchen sink isn't so nice anymore... but there
is nothing out there that is as strong as muriatic acid, and so readily
available.
Thanks,
Nathan Wilkens
MVPA#24957
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Kelly" <tjk2356@webtv.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] M715 fuel tank
> On my M52A2 I removed both tanks and filled them with enough muratic
> acid to completely cover the floor of the tank by about 1". I let it set
> about a half an hour on each side, and the ends (you'll half to block
> any holes and/or lines on top).
>
> After your done, drain the acid (always be EPA PC) then rinse the
> entire insides with water to neutralize the acid residue. drain all the
> water out, I had to use a shop vac to get everything out. once it's dry
> inside put isopropyl alcohol in her and slosh it around on every side,
> ends and the top, then drain, this will remove any moisture left from
> the water. Let it dry overnight and it should be good to install the
> next day.
>
> The longer you let the acid set, if there are thin spots it could eat
> through, that's why I opted for only a half an hour on each internal
> surface. I've been driving the truck almost 3 years now since I did this
> with NO problems or leaks.
>
> Hope this helps
> Tom Kelly
>
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>
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