From: Steve Hight (slhight@qwest.net)
Date: Sat Aug 24 2002 - 07:16:57 PDT
Check to see that you are getting power to the glow plugs when trying to
start. I bypassed the glow plug controller altogether and I use a
pushbutton switch on the inside to activate the glow plugs when needed.
Load is taken off the switch using a ford starter solenoid. And those
$100.00 glow plug controllers (on my 82 and 84) are no longer needed.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie" <seacoastsurplus@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 glowplug system parts?
> The AC Delco 13G GLOW PLUGS are available here
> in Boston area in any good auto parts store
>
> SO, YES, they are still available
>
> I have all the other parts for sale
> and can pickup glowplugs at cost if buying other stuff
> Brian
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
> At 06:38 PM 8/22/02, you wrote:
> >Well, I see that it's time to get out my "Wash & Wear" answers to this
SAME
> >question that is always asked EVERY 5-6 weeks!! Do people ever read this
> >list??!! Only NAPA has a few items in this area that can be used.
AutoZone
> >and Advance do not. These glow plugs are not available through normal
> >channels. Do away with the resistor. Brian, If you have a specific
> >question, email me directly and I will help but maybe this info will help
> >alot. Julian Burke
> >
> >
> > > List, I have a M1009 that turns over but will not start. It started
> > > yesterday time after time, tried it today and it just spins over. Its
> > > getting fuel to the injectors. I have the testing procedure for the
> >glowplug
> > > system I wanted to know where I can buy the parts like
glowplugs,glowplug
> > > relay,relay resister,glowplug controller. Do advance or autozone carry
the
> > > same parts? What is the most common part to go bad? Any help would be
> > > greatly appreciated. Brian
> > >
> > >Here are some postings I did that may help. It is so hot here that I
don't
> >like to spend much time in front of my computer.
> >
> >
> >
> >"Why did GM take the glow plug power off the voltage dropping resistor?
Why
> >not just take 12 vdc off the normal vehicle wiring?"
> >
> >Well, Let me get out my "wash and wear" answer for this as I have written
> >many articles on this very subject and about 3 weeks later it is asked
> >again!
> >
> >GM didn't take the wire off of the resistor, it is an "in shop"
modification
> >that enhances starting the vehicle through stability of the 12 volts to
the
> >glowplug network. The resistor is to drop the 24 volts to 12 volts to
the
> >glow plugs. The glow plugs use 12 Volts and 24 would be too much across
> >them. Now, here is why the resistor is used: All M series vehicles use
a
> >NATO slave plug to jump/slave another vehicle. If the batteries are
stone
> >dead in a CUCV, 24 volts will still feed the glow plug circuit and it
will
> >start when slaved in its' original unmodified condition. However, this
> >should be noted that through the modification the vehicle will start
easier
> >BUT if your CUCV batteries are stone dead when slaved, you will NOT get
12
> >volts to the glow plug circuit because the dead batteries will drop the
> >entire 24 volts to the center of the two batteries until they charge.
This
> >must be kept in mind when jumping off the vehicle with the modification
as
> >it will not start through the slave recepticle until the batteries charge
up
> >to some degree. The modification is to remove the red wire from the
> >output of the glowbar resistor and connect it directly to the 12 volt
buss
> >directly above the glowplug relay. The terminal fits perfectly and the
wire
> >is the right length which makes a nice job. I hope this answers this
> >question again. Your jeep nut, Julian Burke
> >
> > > > Brothers, can anyone tell me where the glow plug controller is
located
> >on:
> > > > 85 M1009? Also, best place to get one, part #? thanks...
> >
> >
> > > Here are four items that will be very useful to know in restoring your
> >CUCV.
> > > I've already done the footwork, cost and you won't have to!
> > >
> > >
> > > 2. BURGUNDY SPRAY PAINT FOR THE DASHPAD. When a new dash is ordered
from
> > > Chevrolet (about $183 body shop price), it comes gray in color. To
paint
> >is
> > > and make it look perfect, your local automotive paint suppliers should
> >have
> > > this on their "generic" rack. It is a regular size 13 oz. vinyl &
plastic
> > > spray manufactured by SEM products of Charlotte, NC. The color is
> >Burgundy
> > > and the stock number is 15063. The contents of the can is little more
> >than
> > > enough to do the entire dash and is a perfect match! It will "make"
the
> > > interior of your unit! Cost is about $8-9. At this point, I
recommend
> >that
> > > you buy a new black insert from Chevrolet and is about $11 body shop
> >price.
> > > Original insert is cut for the NBC bracket and unless you want that
> >bracket,
> > > DON'T cut the new black insert and your CUCV will look great! Little
> >emblem
> > > is about $5.60. Don't forget to wipe down the dash pad with alcohol
> >before
> > > painting.
> > >
> > > 3. GLOW PLUG TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Here is a real goodie piece of
info.
> >The
> > > number in your 34P lists the chevy part number but it has been
upgraded to
> > > this GM stock number: 10045847. Comes with threadseal, shrink splice
and
> > > little pigtail harness to splice into the black/yellow wires to
upgrade
> >the
> > > old plug to fit on the new glow plug sensor. White wires on it are
way
> >to
> > > long so cut some off so they won't be dangling over top of engine.
Cost
> >is
> > > about $22 body shop price. Works great and don't use the old style
> >sensor.
> > >
> > > 4. GLOW PLUG RELAY. Back to NAPA again. It is a "Ford" style relay
and
> > > stock number is: GPR 109. This relay is a round, brown one and is a
> > > suitable replacement. Cost is about $17 and its' footprint will match
the
> > > two screws to mount it even though they don't look like they will!
You
> >will
> > > also have to find or buy new brass nuts and washers for the electric
> >hookup
> > > to it as none come with it. The ones from the old relay will not
match
> >it.
> > > (probably metric) If your old GPR looks like a "dimmer switch"
> >(bakelite),
> > > replace it. If it isn't bad, it soon WILL be! The military upgraded
this
> > > one; is a little silver can, (looks like a Ford type starter
solenoid)
> >and
> > > is a very good one to use. If one isn't available, using the one I
found
> >is
> > > satisfactory and is heavy duty waterproof.
> > >
> > > I have been wanting to post this for some time and hope this helps all
> >CUCV
> > > enthusiasts. Your military NUT in general, Julian Burke
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
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