From: James Shanks (n1vbn@bit-net.com)
Date: Sat Feb 08 2003 - 06:22:31 PST
Excellent post Fred,
I will now add one overlooked (?) portable bomb I have seen
welders use all to often. The Bic style butane lighters. I personally have
seen the results of a single spark hitting one in a welders shirt pocket.
It wasn't pretty and his wife couldn't believe a light had killed her
husband. BE SAFE OUT THERE GUYS LIKE FRED SAID LOOK THE WELDING AREA OVER
BEFORE YOU STRICK AN ARC OR LIGHT A TORCH!!!!!..
James Shanks
MVPA 23128
1998 IMZ 8.103 Russian OD paint job right from the Factory. (Built in the
original plant in Irbit, Siberia, Russia. Comes complete with sidecar. Sold
in US as The
Ural Tourist.
www.ural.com
1984 HD FLHT-C
At 01:47 PM 2/6/03 -0500, Bjorn Brandstedt wrote:
>Good post, Fred. Good info, thanks./Bjorn
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>>From: Fred Martin <mung@in-touch.net>
>>To: <mil-veh@mil-veh.org> (Military Vehicles Mailing List)
>>Subject: Re: [MV] Welding References Sought (long post)
>>Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 11:44:19 +0000
>>
>>The use of coathangers for torch welding died a long time ago....the
>>danged things would just burn up when the flame hit them....unless you
>>found some ancient ones. (better metal content) I use a 1/16" copper
>>coated steel rod that the welding supply houses recommend for thin sheet
>>metal and a small tip. The copper coating helps control the rust on them
>>so you get a good clean weld....and puddle it in. It takes some practice
>>to be able to melt the parent metal and the rod at the same time and
>>that'ol China syndrome will jump out at you. (burn through) Probably be
>>best to recommend to use a backup strip (usually 1/4" copper) to keep it
>>from happening. And don't forget....the fumes from any weld process are
>>hazardous to your health. Do it outside or use a small fan to blow them
>>away. That'll get you started....follow the rest of the safety
>>precautions for your equipment and you're good to go. NEVER EVER get
>>close to the 15# regulator pressure on accetylene, it can come out as a
>>liquid,very dangerous and explosive....5# is generally enough. Another
>>modern day requirement for the accetylene torch is flash
>>arrestors....they are attached to the back of the torch where the hoses
>>connect and the hoses are connected to them. They keep the backfires from
>>going up the hoses. (check valves) Accetylene bottles are not a
>>bomb....if used properly....they will not explode as they have lead plugs
>>in them that melt and vent the accetylene to the atmosphere along with a
>>small fire if it is present. Some of this content is basic (and boring)
>>to those who use this equipment regularly....but it should be posted for
>>the ones that it is new to or who did it 20 years ago and need a
>>refresher. Before lighting the torch....always look around for aerosol
>>bombs and gas cans and leaks....don't weld around them! Sniff for leaks
>>when you put on a new bottle or use soapy water and a paint brush and
>>look for bubbles. Also NEVER use oil or grease on any fittings....leave
>>them dry. NEVER cut or weld on a vessel of unknown content (barrels or
>>fuel tanks and such)....they can kill you! My appologies for the long
>>post....no amount of appologies can bring back a life. As
>>usual....disclaimer....your on your own (and maybe a little safer.)
>>
>>Fred Martin
>>Don't worry bout the mule goin blind....just load the wagon!
>>
>>myrddin7@juno.com wrote:
>>>just about any high school reference book will have what you need.also
>>>the idiots guide may have a welding book.i have only a oxy acetalyne rig
>>>for my body work.i use a size " 0 " tip and real low carbon welding
>>>rod.it is much better metal than coathangers,that some people use.mike
>>>power
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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