Re: [MV] M1009 started problem - my story (All MV content!)

From: chance wolf (chance_wolf@shaw.ca)
Date: Fri Jun 04 2004 - 21:11:29 PDT


----- Original Message -----
From: "Caleb Pal, Network Operations" <sysop@spitfire.homelinux.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 started problem - my story (All MV content!)

> We took off the old flexplate, and called it a night.
> Saturday night me and a friend got the torque specs, and started at 2230
> again. Got the flexplate, bolted it up, and got the tranny/transfer in
> again. It was rather easy, considering we had 3 jacks to adjust how the
> engine and transfer/tranny sat, so lining up was not a big deal. We had
> everything except the flexplate cover and the front driveline in by 0330.
> When we were putting the new starter in, we snapped a start bolt,

 Yeah. I've got to do precisely the same thing coming up on mine. Right now
it's a challenge finding a piece of the ring gear which isn't bald, thanks
to a combination of factors I won't go into here.

As far as the 12V swap goes, yup, change the feed wire to 12 V, but you can
also find yourself the starter relay (beneath the dash above the connector
for the STE/ICE pretty near the ashtray) and change the starter relay's
input wire from 24V to 12V. When you flip the key, the relay will throw 12
instead of 24, and your solenoid won't keep kicking in and out like in one
of our vehicles the 12 starter was installed in when I wasn't around to
kibbitz.

The freakin' irritating thing is the rebuilt starters on the market right
now. Those familiar with the starters will note that some were installed
with shims, and some weren't. Unfortunately, all the starters coming back
from the commercial rebuilders still have the "NO SHIMS" cast into the
starter housing where the solenoid bolts up, yet also come with a tag
stating that "shims may be required" whether the casting says "NO SHIMS" or
not. Yeahswell. I suppose I could go look it up in the manual and break
out the feeler guages to determine pinion-to-ring-gear clearance, but...what
a giant pain in the ass.

We just bought a cheap reduction starter off of Ebay which I'll try when
next I have a failed starter. I had one of those already in the LAV
prototype we have fitted with a GM 6.5 diesel, but it lasted about three
weeks (I didn't buy or install it.) Doesn't exactly inspire a warmth of
confidence. :)



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