From: David Cole (DavidCole@tk7.net)
Date: Sun Jun 20 2004 - 19:45:45 PDT
I agree. It would be a lot easier to use a low amp DC welder and make two
passes as you describe. I think this could also be done with a MIG, but the
Mig welders places like John Deere use for frames are cranking out 300-400
amps with 1/16" wire, etc. Not exactly something you can put in your house
with a single phase 200 amp service! I've tried and it just doesn't work
well. At least with 6010 or 6011 you can be sure you will get good
penetration. And the 7018 will make sure that the base metal will fail
before the weld.
Dave
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 22:09:47 -0400, GOTaM35 <GOTaM35@joetrapp.com> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <rertman@ix.netcom.com>
>
>> 2. Yes, a good welder can repair it with a high frequency TIG or MIG
> welder.
>
> I hate to disagree with anyone about anything, but I would like to give
> an
> opinion on this one. Keep in mind there may be things here I am unaware
> of,
> therefore I could be wrong.
>
> I don't trust TIG or MIG on anything thick. Having said that I did
> visit
> the John Deere plant last week and was amazed at there mig set up to weld
> the frames.
>
> I was a pipe welder for 15 years before becoming a "small business" owner
> and operator of heavy equipment. If done properly a pipe can be welded
> so
> that the weld is as strong as the pipe. Of course there could be some
> tensile strength issues I am not aware of here. I would suggest grinding
> the crack about half way down with a 1/4" grinding wheel. This will
> leave
> you with a 1/4" groove. Weld this groove with a P5 rod. That's a 6010
> about 1/8" diameter if you use a DC welder. Try to fill the groove with
> weld but don't stay there long enough to penetrate the pipe and leave
> weld
> on the inside, if you are talking about a telescopic tow bar. Mine is
> telescopic and that would keep it from working. Grind out the groove
> until
> you see nothing but clean steel. Then cover or fill, depending on what
> is
> left in the groove, with a Low hydrogen rod, maybe a 3/32", 7018. Be
> sure
> to bond to the edges good. It really is pretty easy. I repair trucks
> and
> equipment like this all the time and all I ever use is my DC machine and
> the
> two rods mentioned. Works great on mild steel. Most things are mild
> steel.
> One thing I have noticed is if you are grinding on steel and the sparks
> tend
> to "sparkle" then you are working with some hard and therefore brittle
> steel. If the tow bar is indeed this hard, I wouldn't trust any weld. I
> welded a piece on a tractor one time this hard and I dropped the part on
> the
> ground (that is dirt here) and it broke on the weld like glass. Has
> something to do with the molecular make of the steel and the orientation
> of
> the carbon atom.
>
> And there's a pipe welders take on it.
>
> Joe Trapp
>
> PS. You know you have welded too much when a spark in the pants no
> longer
> makes you jump :-()
>
>
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-- Dave
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