From: Paul Vandervort (pgv@imaxx.net)
Date: Thu Sep 02 2004 - 13:40:23 PDT
Tom
The manual lever should operate the pump just as in the normal camshaft
operated mode. There will be a free area that the hand lever will move
freely up and down in. This area of lever action will not operate the
pumping action. You have to pull up fairly hard to actuate the
diaphragm. You should feel the resistance from the spring loaded
diaphragm. Note that if the cam lobe has the the internal arm lifted,
the hand lever may not be effective, so you may have to rotate the
engine slightly. It has been a while since I looked at this style pump,
but the hand lever may override the camshaft operated arm if the cam
lobe has the cam operated arm lifted, but currently I am not 100% sure.
Pumps not pumping can be caused by:
1. Air leak in the suction line/hose. Almost any air leak between the
tank and pump will cause it not to draw fuel. Pressurize the line back
to the tank (with tank cap removed so you don't overpressurize tank) and
look for leaks.
2. If you removed the intank fuel filter you run the risk of introducing
contaminates into the fuel pump. ANY particles stuck in the fuel pump's
check valve(s) will definitely cause it to not pump. If the inlet check
valve(s) (total of three) get anything in any one of them it will draw
fuel in but will push it right back into the tank, and thus will not
produce any pressure.
3. Remove the flexible fuel line that runs from the frame area to the
pump. Look inside and make sure that the line has no collapsed
internally. Also if it still have the fuel shut off valve installed at
the flex fuel line location, make sure it has no leaks.
4. Make sure the fuel tank is vented. If it is not vented eventually you
will not be able to draw fuel from it.
Also make sure that you don't have a leak in the pump's diaphragms and
you are just dumping gas right into the engine oil pan. I have seen this
before, but the pump would still produce enough pressure to run the
engine.
I had a '65 Chevy that would hesitate a highway speed. Would run in the
lower bands fine. That was a bad fuel pump.
Hope this helps ya, I hope I covered all the possibilities.
Paul Vandervort
MVPA 437
IMVPA 007
Thomas M McHugh wrote:
>
> OK learned list, how about some help.
>
> Prior to stalling out, I had trouble accelerating to top speed, it seemed to
> be starving. It seemed to run better with less throttle. Towing it at
> speed suddenly caused it to start, with a pop, & then ran for a while &
> slowly died out.
>
> Now it will not run.
>
> The Fuel pump was rebuilt last driving season & the Carb was rebuilt last
> spring. Plugs are new, Points, Condenser & Rotor check out OK.
>
> I tried putting on an inline fuel filter & cut the old in tank fuel filter
> off. It now is a straight open gas line out of the tank.
>
> I do not seem to be getting fuel & using the priming lever does not draw any
> fuel. I have a hose into a jug off of the fuel pump to carb line, have
> cranked it a lot, without fuel flowing.
>
> Should the priming lever draw fuel into the empty gas line in the gas tank
> ???
>
> NOW: What should I do before I remove the fuel pump & look for a problem
> ???
>
> As always, any & all help is appreciated.
>
> Tom McHugh, NJ
> 1952 M38A1
> M-416 Trailer
> MVPA, MTA
>
> NOTE:
> New Jersey State Commander
> Korean War Veterans Association
> "Always looking for Korean Vets to join the KWVA"
>
> If you served during the Korean War
> OR
> Served in Korea since the war, join the KWVA now.
>
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