From: Mike Maynard (mike@wesleyscott.com)
Date: Sat Dec 18 2004 - 07:49:22 PST
I figure its time to drop my 6.2 starting knowledge. My brother had a civvy
6.2 in a blazer for a number of years. He had a hard time with the glow
plugs and had it up to the local 'truck' dealer that specializes in them.
First thing he found out, was the original glow plug controller was very
problematic. The dealer eventually put a newer controller out of a late
80's early 90's truck. Worked a lot better. I am not sure if the Military
versions use the same ones or not.
The other thing he learned we have applied many many times on various things
since, the mechanic up there told us to use Pure Silicone Spray as a
starting fluid. He said its safe to use with glow plugs working, and is
better for the engine than either, as it lubes the cylinders instead of
washing them clean. We had bought a diesel Chevette (what a car that was
;-) ) that had sat for a number of years. Glow plugs where shot in it, but
we had it started in about 10 minutes at about 50 degrees! The silicone
works really good, just have to spray it in past the air filter instead of
before it.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Ellis [mailto:stuinnh@mvnut.us]
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 7:41 AM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] Another CUCV glow plug story
Don't forget to change the fuel pressure switch! It will help with the
cure! $10
"Stu"
Southern New Hampshire, USA
"Live Free Or Die"
MVPA #14790
1967 M151A1 Jeep
1964 M416 Trailer
1986 M1009 Blazer
-----Original Message-----
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
Of Mike
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 1:51 AM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: [MV] Another CUCV glowplug story
Importance: High
I have been working on my M1010 glow plugs and though I would share my
results so far. It worked fine when I first got the truck but last winter
it got were it wouldn't crank below about 45 degrees. I still had to cycle
the glow plugs before it would crank below about 60 degrees so I knew at
least a few plugs were still working. I checked a few of the easier to get
to plugs and they were open to ground. I bought a set of 60g plugs, got
ready for the worst and proceeded to change the plugs. Much to my surprise
they all came out without any problem. None of them were swollen at all.
Three were still good. It had WELLMAN 6A843G070 plugs in it. I got this
truck from DRMO and it was unmodified. The relay (newer silver can type)
was still connected to the resistors. Somehow I either lost or was shorted
2 plugs so I reused two of the old plugs. I also removed the wire from the
resistors and put a jumper to the 12 volt buss. The first time I started
it I got a big voltage drop on the front battery and it started but not any
faster than before and it had been run earlier that day. That night it got
down into the low 20's and had warmed up to about 35 the next morning when I
tried to crank it. The wait light stayed on much longer than before 20 to
30 seconds and it wouldn't hit a lick. I barely got any voltage drop
either. The batteries were a little weak so I charged them and tried again
Thursday afternoon. Still the unusually long wait light and wouldn't crank.
It was about 50 degrees then. I checked the same 3 easy to get to plugs and
they were all still good. Next I checked the relay. It still makes a good
clicking noise but I only got 0.5 volts from the load terminal. I guess
either the extra load from 8 good plugs or the excessive time burnt out the
contacts in the relay.
Next I plan to replace the relay. I am worried about the excessive time
though. I may do a manual conversion, but haven't decided yet. Someone
mentioned that the 60gs pull more current than the original plugs do. Has
anyone actually measured the voltage at the resister to see if it is really
12 volts and if it is much different with 60g plugs verses stock plugs?
Mike
Tishomingo, MS
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