From: Mil-Veh Co. (milveh@sbcglobal.net)
Date: Thu Dec 30 2004 - 15:14:33 PST
Ok, I am getting closer, in fact I think I found it.
I got the miss to change holes! It went from #3 to #2
with the change of #3 and #2 spark plug wires.
So it was in the wire all the time. I replaced that
bad wire, but looks like the second wire was also
bad...odd coincidence that threw me for a loop for a
time.
But, remember that the continuity checked out fine.
Continuity and the ability to fire a spark plug are
two different things...I knew that, but glossed over
it.
I have new plug wires on order and they should arrive
any day now. I suspect all will be fine when the
proper wires are attached.
One thing that kinda has me wondering whats up is I
did a test with new spark plug wire, solid wire core
too. I used a length of that and tried to see if it
would clear up the miss. It wouldn't, still a dead
miss.
QUESTION. I'm wondering if there is more to the
waterproof wiring? Could it be that it is the only
thing I can use to transmit the electricty to a
military plug? Anybody know this one?
I tried a civilian plug with the same specs as the mil
plug, but it still wouldn't fire. Would fire using
the civilian plug wire, I should say, couldn't test
the mil wire for obvious reasons. However, when I
pulled the wire off the plug, there was a huge spark
to the non-mil plug center wire, but still the plug
wouldn't fire with the wire connected....weird huh?
I removed the civy plug and had my neighbor ground the
plug on the block and look for spark when I turned it
over, but when I cranked it up the compression ring
blew out of the open plug hole and scared him. He
jumped and accidently grounded himself on the ol plug
pliers and got bit! But, not before he notice the plug
DID fired out of the hole, but not from the center
wire to the ground wire which is that (L) shaped wire
on the business end of the plug. Instead it fired
from the wall of the shell to the center wire???
I know Lar is starving waiting to hear this mystery is
solved, so I'll say mystery solved...a bad plug wire,
another bad plug wire I used to check it and a civy
wire that wouldn't work either! Those new wires
better work or my next letter will be an M151 for
sale.
Thanks guys for all your great suggestions to get this
thing diagnosed right.
Jack
--- Muttguru@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 30/12/04 01:43:13 GMT Standard
> Time, milveh@sbcglobal.net
> writes:
>
> > Anybody know what the clearance is supposed to be
> between the magnet and
> > the cam lobe on the M151?
> >
>
>
> Jack,
>
> yes, but do you know what type of Solid State
> Ignition you have?
>
> There are two types:-
>
> If you have the Swiss Controls model, then you can
> identify this by the big,
> disk-shaped rotor. There is no adjustment for air
> gap on this model of SSI.
>
> If you have the Prestolite system, then you can
> identify it easily. It has a
> standard rotor arm fitted. The air gap should be set
> at 0.009" to 0.012".
> That's the gap between one of the trigger-wheel
> teeth and the face of the sensor.
> You should have a black plastic gauge for doing this
> (an IDL-48). If you
> don''t have this gauge, then DON'T use a steel
> feeler gauge..... find a brass ot
> plastic one. With steel, there is a chance that you
> may magnetise the
> trigger/sensor and ruin the whole setup (if you
> haven't already done so).
>
> Hope this helps..... ps...have you got any photos
> of your mutt?
>
> Kind regards....
> Ken
>
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