From: MV (MV@dc9.tzo.com)
Date: Sun Jul 10 2005 - 12:06:01 PDT
Terry,
The way the military trailers are made with sheetmetal and overlapping
spot welded seams, keeping rust out of the seams is very difficult with
only paint.
I have lived in the rust belt my entire rustfilled life, and the only
way I know how to keep rust from coming back through seams is to apply
some type of rust preventative compound to the backside of the seam.
The military does the same thing. I have two military trucks both from
the midwest and they did a very nice rustproofing job on both trucks.
JC Whitney sells a decent rustproofing tool set and the corresponding
compound in 1 liter bottles. It works and compared to sandblasting and
painting, it's pretty cheap.
I have a 78 chevy van that lived it's entire life in the midwest it is
still intact only because of rustproofing compound.
Dave
Terry Lane wrote:
> List,
> I am restoring an 1993 M105A2 trailer that I just got sand blasted
> and have it on jacks with the wheels off and have started painting from
> the springs/hubs/axle on up. I am using Gillespie zinc phosphate red
> primer (nice stuff) from RAPCO and I must say it is the best dam primer
> I have ever used bar none. I am thinning it as Mark told me 80/20 with
> Zylene. My question is this, after I paint the whole trailer with this
> primer, will I have to sand the primer before I put the 383 carc green
> top coats on? Or can I just start covering the primer? The last trailer
> I did was primed with John Deer primer and it rusted through the seams.
> Mark told me to pour the primer into all the seams by hand to soak them
> well.
> Maybe I should have sealed the seams with body filler putty first and
> then sanded them?----((I know I know--it's just an M105A2 trlr.)) But I
> want it to come out good for the Mil-Veh shows here in (Kalefornia).I
> still need a set of metal bows for it, anybody have an extra set??
> Thanks for the help
> terry lane
>
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