Military Vehicles, March 1997,: Re: M-37 Advice
Re: M-37 Advice
Dave DeChambeau (Davedec@novais.com)
Thu, 6 Mar 1997 20:31:14 -0500
Hi Russell,
This M37 sounds like fun!
I have a little advice based on my experiences.
My M35 had no brake fluid when I bought it either. I refilled the master
cylinder reservoir and bled the brakes in accordance with the tech manual.
Here it goes (your right it will be a pain in the weeds);
My 1967 M35 used SILICON brake fluid, yours will say so on the
master cylinder or the access cover. The stuff is mighty pricey and you need
1 gallon.
Place a wrench on the master cylinder bleed valve and have someone press the
brake pedal down as you open and then close the valve,( have the brake
person hold the petal down until you have closed the valve or air will be
sucked in through the valve. Repeat this until fresh brake fluid flows from
the valve.
Next go to the far rear driver side axle and do the same on the valve
located on teh brake backing plate under the truck. You will go through many
open and close cycles before clean fluid flows, MANY. Then the tech manual
says to go to the rear most passenger side and do the same. Then to the
intermidiate axle passenger side and then the driver side. Finally, left
front then right front. Guess what? Your not done. Repeat the entire thing
all over again, this time bleeding for air bubbles.
Now you may have brakes, however, the brake fluid doesn't leak out of a
healthy brake system, you have a leak somewhere in a seal or fitting. After
starting the truck and builing air pressure, shut the truck down and use the
built up air to look under the truck for big leaks with the brake firmly
pressed. I t may be ok to drive if you don't see a big leak and the brakes
don't go to the floor. By the way that's the master cylinder check, (does
the pedal go to the floor after you have bled the brakes.
AS for the tranny and transfer case, just check the fluid levels through the
level inspection plugs and top off if neccesary. Change them if dirty,wet or
when you get home.
Your tires will have flat spots (bias plys go square quickly) and ride with
a hop, I'm the expert on that one!
They may however 'round-out' after warming up.
Top off the batteries water level and slow charge them. They are 12 volt
baterries wired in series for 24 volts. Disconnect them and connect a couple
of good 12 volt battery chargers on them for 4 or 5 hours (low amps).
Take any quality 30 weight diesel motor oil, six gallons of it, drain the
old and replace before you start it. It should take a lot of cranking to get
this baby started and that should help lube the motor bearings before the
pressures of combustion begin.
Good luck and have fun!
David
At 04:00 PM 3/6/97 EST, you wrote:
> I need some advice/info regarding a M-37:
>
> I looked at a M-37 sitting on a farm. I believe it used to be a brush
>