JR
Dave DeChambeau wrote:
>
> Hi Russell,
> This M37 sounds like fun!
> I have a little advice based on my experiences.
> My M35 had no brake fluid when I bought it either. I refilled the master
> cylinder reservoir and bled the brakes in accordance with the tech manual.
> Here it goes (your right it will be a pain in the weeds);
> My 1967 M35 used SILICON brake fluid, yours will say so on the
> master cylinder or the access cover. The stuff is mighty pricey and you need
> 1 gallon.
> Place a wrench on the master cylinder bleed valve and have someone press the
> brake pedal down as you open and then close the valve,( have the brake
> person hold the petal down until you have closed the valve or air will be
> sucked in through the valve. Repeat this until fresh brake fluid flows from
> the valve.
> Next go to the far rear driver side axle and do the same on the valve
> located on teh brake backing plate under the truck. You will go through many
> open and close cycles before clean fluid flows, MANY. Then the tech manual
> says to go to the rear most passenger side and do the same. Then to the
> intermidiate axle passenger side and then the driver side. Finally, left
> front then right front. Guess what? Your not done. Repeat the entire thing
> all over again, this time bleeding for air bubbles.
> Now you may have brakes, however, the brake fluid doesn't leak out of a
> healthy brake system, you have a leak somewhere in a seal or fitting. After
> starting the truck and builing air pressure, shut the truck down and use the
> built up air to look under the truck for big leaks with the brake firmly
> pressed. I t may be ok to drive if you don't see a big leak and the brakes
> don't go to the floor. By the way that's the master cylinder check, (does
> the pedal go to the floor after you have bled the brakes.
>
> AS for the tranny and transfer case, just check the fluid levels through the
> level inspection plugs and top off if neccesary. Change them if dirty,wet or
> when you get home.
>
> Your tires will have flat spots (bias plys go square quickly) and ride with
> a hop, I'm the expert on that one!
> They may however 'round-out' after warming up.
>
> Top off the batteries water level and slow charge them. They are 12 volt
> baterries wired in series for 24 volts. Disconnect them and connect a couple
> of good 12 volt battery chargers on them for 4 or 5 hours (low amps).
>
> Take any quality 30 weight diesel motor oil, six gallons of it, drain the
> old and replace before you start it. It should take a lot of cranking to get
> this baby started and that should help lube the motor bearings before the
> pressures of combustion begin.
>
> Good luck and have fun!
> David
>
> At 04:00 PM 3/6/97 EST, you wrote:
> > I need some advice/info regarding a M-37:
> >
> > I looked at a M-37 sitting on a farm. I believe it used to be a brush
> >