I've never before owned a military vehicle, never really even been around
them, much less restored one. However, I now own two WWII jeeps. One is a
complete (and I mean complete) basket case while the other is together and
running, but with several modifications from original. My educational
process in this area has begun. I began by searching the Internet (hence,
my joining this list) and acquiring several books on the WWII jeep. I have
read the achieves of this list and at this point have many more questions
than answers. If anyone gets tired of seeing my questions come up then
maybe one or two of you would volunteer to be a personal mentor for my
beginning basic knowledge base.
First question - I have read the recent thread on rivets and everyone seems
to agree that rivets originally attached the front bumper gussets. If that
is true, then could someone explain to me why on page 20 of the WAR
DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL TM 9-803 there is a picture clearly showing (at
least the top left) a gusset attached by hex-head bolts.
I received the following tool list from another vehicle mailing list I'm on
and thought this list might enjoy it. I have made some slight modifications
to better fit this forum.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Cason
Long Beach, CA
USA
DEFINITIONS FOR THE MECHANIC
============================
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays
is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive vehical parts not far
from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
on boxes containing canvas tops or fitted tents.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets
in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for
drilling mounting holes in the floor of a vehicle just above the brake
line that goes to the rear axle.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available,
they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of
your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale
garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket
drawer (What wife would think to look in _there_?) because you can never
remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX
at Fort Campbell.
ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetylene torch.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older European cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems
from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest
and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Swedish
Bikini Team poster over the bench grinder.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint
whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you
to say, "Django Reinhardt".
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a truck to the ground after
you have installed a set of new torsion bars, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the front bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a truck upward off a
hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes
and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup
on crankshaft pulleys and flywheel access holes.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have
forgotten to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool
that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
without the handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
from car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin",
which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside,
its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same
rate that 105-mm howitzer shells were used during, say, the first
few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light,
its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Formerly used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can now be used,
as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
suspension bolts last tightened 54 years ago by someone in Detroit,
Michigan, and rounds them off.
===
To unsubscribe from the mil-veh mailing list, send the single word
UNSUBSCRIBE in the body of a message to <mil-veh-request@skylee.com>.