NOTE: I've seen other replacement points where the spring was not level because it was
lower than the original one and when you attached it to the terminal post, it raised
the end of the spring and skewed the points slightly, not to mention the fact that it
would apply upward pressure against the flared stop at the top of the pivot. I'd avoid
these, unless you like inconsistent timing and want to replace and adjust the points a
lot more often.
Points don't care about primary ignition voltage, just the current.
There's probably an aftermarket rotor available at a regular parts store, but I don't
know a part number. You can certainly get rotors from the various surplus dealers,
however, and they should work fine. If there aren't any carbon tracks on the old rotor,
and if the contact button isn't worn, just keep your old rotor.
Whatever condenser you get (try to get a major brand), MAKE SURE that the condenser
FITS PROPERLY under the distributor cap. There is NOT much room under the M37 cap and
many ignition failures can be attributed to improper condenser installation. After
mounting the condenser, remove the cap from the distributor top and gently place it on
top of the main distributor body. There are notches in the side of the cap through
which you can observe whether or not there is any interference with the cap. You may
have to bend the condenser mounting bracket a bit to get things to fit. If the old one
fit OK, you may be able to re-use the old bracket. ALSO make sure that the condenser is
at least 1/16 inch from the cam lobes. A lot of them fail when the distributor cap
pushes an improperly installed condenser against the cam (which will also damage the
cam).
While you have the cap off, you should oil the small felt in the top of the distributor
shaft, put a drop or two of oil on the advance weight pivots, and oil the upper shaft
bushing wick (through a plug hole on the outside of the distributor). You might also
let a couple of drops of oil slide down onto the upper thrust washer under the weight
assembly. If you are more ambitious, you could disassemble things a bit more and do
some greasing (between cam and main shaft, weight pivots, etc.). Generally speaking,
though, a few drops of oil will last for a long time. Keep oil and grease off of the
points, but put a very small dab of cam lubricant (high-temperature grease) on the side
of the rubbing block towards which the cam rotates.
Hint: Sometimes it's easier to remove the distributor to do a good fitting and
lubrication job. Mark the parts before removing, so that you can get the timing
approximately correct when you reassemble it.
Remember to re-time it after setting the points.
Have fun,
Alan
******* wrote:
> Do you have to buy points condenser and rotor buttons for m-37's from MV parts
> dealers? Does anyone have part numbers for these if they are available at NAPA?
> Are the points for a MV rated at 24 volts or do they know the difference between 12
> and 24 volts?
> Just curious,
> Tim
>
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