Re: [MV] neutering front axles -Reply

JRONEY@elotouch.com
Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:03:12 -0700

Well, I'm not one to argue, but I'll try.

Your comment about enough clearance doesn't make sense to me...If
there's enough clearance, then they won't make contact, and won't get
hotter,...

Warn Industries' first commercial product was in fact a set of
disconnect (neutered) flanges for the Dana 25 axle. When you consider
that the axle shaft is supported by the bronze bushing (inboard) and
has limited clearance between spindle and shaft (1/8"), you simply
must ensure that the neutered hub is at least 1/4" bigger than the OD
of the splines. When you start to get big enough, you start to run
out of room for the cap, which is probably why Warn cast their own.
(Why you would want to is beyond me, since you can buy the superwinch
hubs for $75.00)

As to operating the vehicle with the front axle disconnected from the
drive wheels, it is a good idea, especially if you flat tow, or drive
a lot. Your assumption that the Willys drivetrain is well engineered
is flawed. It is well engineered for a vehicle that will not exceed
50 MPH and spends a lot of time in marginal traction situations. Most
of our miles are logged on pavement, which was NOT the original design
constraint of the vehicle. (Maybe I should say that the Willys is
well engineered, but mis-applied.)

If you are fortunate enough to have the factory Power-Lok in the front
axle (M38-A1 USMC only), driving without disconnect hubs is rather
uncomfortable. Also, the Bendix and Rzeppa joints are extremely
lubrication sensitive, (spicer joint less so) and the less they turn,
the longer they last. The front driveshaft is also a maintenence
item, and it is a major source of vibration at speeds in excess of 60
MPH. Granted, the transfer case output shaft bushing will wear out
faster.

I don't have any hard data on the fuel economy piece, but I doubt if
there are any significant savings behind the L-head.

Thanks for pointing out that if you're going to "fix" your Jeep, you
need to do it right.

james.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: [MV] neutering front axles -Reply
Author: WIDD-James(MAJ) RICEJ (WIDD-James(MAJ) RICEJ)
<RiceJ@silltcmd-smtp.army.mil> at internet
Date: 10/7/98 12:03 PM

I had a friend that neutered the front axle of his M38A1. He machined
new flanges without splines. The axles slipped into the flanges, but with
no splines, the axles did not turn. The problem is that the flanges which
being bolted to the wheel/hub must turn. The result is friction and heat.
The axles are laying stationary in the turning hub.

There is no support in the spindle so the axle must ride in the flange.
Even with enough clearance, the flange will turn about the shaft causing
undue heat and wear. After just a few miles, my friends hubs are too
hot to touch. He has gained no appreciable increase in gas mileage nor
any significant reduction of noise.

IMHO, this whole neutering thing is a bad idea. These vehicles were
designed to run with the front axles turning. You aren't going to really
hurt the vehicle by running the way it was built to run. If you really must
mave lockin/lockout hubs, you need to replace the flanges with the
correct selectable types.

Another option would be to completely remove the front axle shafts. Of
course, this is not a very practical method as is removing a rear axle
shaft on a tandem axle truck.

Jim Rice
'42 ICH M-3L-4
'43 Ford GPW
'67 Ford M151A1

===
To unsubscribe from the mil-veh mailing list, send the single word
UNSUBSCRIBE in the body of a message to <mil-veh-request@skylee.com>.

===
To unsubscribe from the mil-veh mailing list, send the single word
UNSUBSCRIBE in the body of a message to <mil-veh-request@skylee.com>.