this week. I used a vacuum pump (pistol type - available in Sears stores=
and others) which allows one person to do the job. I believe the
compressor gets it's lube from the engine oil, at least that is the way i=
t
is with the 5 ton. If the compressor is getting really hot, I'd take a
chance and suspect the unloader valve. When the compressor hits 120 psi =
it
is suppose to be unloaded, via some pneumatic valves. On the 5 ton, the
compressor cylinder head is cooled via engine coolant. =
The order of bleeding the brakes (after filling the master cylinder) is:=
Master cylinder bleed screw (on top of snout)
Upper hydrovac bleed screw
Lower hydrovac bleed screw
Then each wheel cylinder, I'd do the furthest one first.
Fortunately I got a solid pedal after just doing the Master cylinder and
hydrovac.
Make sure you use Silicone brake fluid if it says so in the truck. It i=
s
painted on the dash and the door of my truck. If not DOT 3 or 4 should b=
e
fine. Napa carries DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, but beware it is $24 per
quart around here.
Good Luck,
Dave
Message text written by "peachey"
> However after a couple of fresh batteries and additional prep it came
back
to life. However after a few minutes of running the air compressor starte=
d
getting hot so we shut down the engine.
My question is if there is some way to add oil to the compressor or what
else could cause this trouble. Also the former owner told me of brake flu=
id
leaks and as I tried the pedal there was absolutely no resistance to the
pedal. I'm not sure where the master cylinder is to add fluid.
<
===
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