______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: [MV] Purchase problem
Author: Jerry Jewell <jj@tgd.com> at internet
Date: 03/19/1999 8:08 AM
Not that I like taxes but what is suggested below is known as felony tax fraud.
My
suggestion is that if you want to commit a crime go right ahead but don't ask a
vendor or customer to participate with you.
Here's another thing you should know about the DMV (happened to me). I sold a
car
for $6,000. The buyer turned around and told the DMV they bought it for 3,000.
The
DMV called me to verify the sale amount. I wisely said $6,000 and the buyer got
prosecuted. If I had lied for the buyer I'm sure we would have both been
prosecuted.
Jerry
43 GPW
JRONEY@elotouch.com wrote:
>
> Am I the only one here who doesn't like to pay "use" tax on vehicles
> that are already "used?"
>
> Call me crazy, but in California, cash is king. Not that everybody
> wants to walk around with a big wad of cash, but a few thousand takes
> up less room (and is genrally lighter) than the .45 pistol necessary
> to ensure its safety.
>
> Why cash? 8.25%, that's why. Our State Board of Equalization
> requires vendors (and individuals) to collect sales tax on almost
> everything, including used stuff. The fact that they can't enforce it
> on individuals means you can generally save some $$$ when paying cash,
> but the statutes require that someone pay the state.
>
> That cashiers check provides a wonderful paper trail for future
> audits, etc. (anybody been watching Matlock?)
>
> Furthermore, if I'm selling, the first one with cash wins. The
> deposit is a great idea, but I wouldn't leave more than I could afford
> to lose, since when you come back the vendor might be gone. I have
> also drafted a Bill of Sale, with deposit amounts, and blanks for
> signatures and VIN's. This won't keep you from being ripped off, but
> if you go to court, it's easier to prove your deposit wasn't for
> something else. I've also taken keys and registration, as well as
> unsigned titles for security against my deposit. Swapping drivers
> licenses is good, but then it's hard to get a cashiers check!
>
> It's not because I'm paranoid (I am!) but I do drive a Jeep, and I've
> left to get money, and I've broken down, been delayed, got lost, etc.
> and when I returned, the guy/booth/show has been over and gone. It's
> a wierd feeling, when you know it's your own fault, but can you really
> expect someone to stay at a swap booth when you are 12 hours late?
>
> Your bill of sale should include the date, location, ID of both
> parties, local address, permanent address, and phone numbers. It
> should state the amount of DOWN PAYMENT, amount of sale, and ID of the
> thing you intend to buy. It should also give a reasonable time to pay
> the balance, and indicate the disposition of the DOWN PAYMENT in case
> of a failure to show up. Doesn't need a lot of legal jargon, just a
> sheet of paper to "remind" everybody of the deal.
>
> After you return with money/check/whatever, that bill of sale
> disappears, and a new one is created with only the minimum of
> information to satisfy the DMV. Sometimes the "sales price" is
> modified to reflect "market value."
>
> I once bought a jeep and used the fact that it had aftermarket wheels
> as a means to negotiate the price DOWN (no combat wheels). I paid the
> deposit, and when I returned, the wheels were gone! The guy said he
> thought I didn't want them, so he sold them separately. What a mess.
>
> I'm looking foward to seeing you at the convention. You'll know me by
> the bulge in my wallet.
>
> james
> Fremont, CA
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
> Subject: Re: [MV] Purchase problem
> Author: Dave Cole <davidacole@juno.com> at internet
> Date: 03/18/1999 4:09 PM
>
> I wouldn't deal cash or travelers checks unless you think it would be a
> great negotiating advantage. If your Credit Union is 8 miles from the
> center, there is no reason why you couldn't give the dealer a couple
> hundred in cash, ( that way he knows you are dead serious, get a
> receipt,), then you go visit your friendly credit unit and get a
> cashier's check made out to the dealer for the full amount and he signs
> over the title. Another way to do it is via electronic funds transfer
> but then you both really need to go to a bank together to make the
> transaction (not necessary from a technical standpoint, but from a trust
> standpoint)
>
> Dave Cole
>
> On Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:02:00 -0800 "Denall, Mike" <mike.denall@lmco.com>
> writes:
> >Hey 1999 San Jose Convention organizers, or anyone else who can advise
> >me...
> >I have a serious question here...
> >If I wanted to purchase a vehicle (M37 I hope), at the convention, and
> >didn't want to carry a lot of cash with me, will you organizers have
> >an area
> >set aside for potential buyers to "pre-qualify" prior to the
> >convention, say
> >for some dollar amount so I don't have to deal with the money stuff
> >directly
> >with the buyers? Would you allow me to use either, a credit card, or
> >a
> >personal check from my bank with a credit card for security to cover
> >the
> >total amount of the check [kind of like insurance]. I don't want to
> >stand
> >there with hundred dollar bills falling out of my pocket while
> >negotiating a
> >price.
> >How is this problem usually handled?
> >My Credit Union is only about 8 miles from the convention center.
> >
> >Mike Denall
> >19626
> >
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