Re: [MV] M211 Front axle setop

Joe Foley (redmenaced@yahoo.com)
Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:29:16 -0700 (PDT)

--- Brian Leffler <leffield@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Knowledgible Listers,
>
> I have been having trouble with the front axle of my
> M211 not engaging while working in mud. Yesterday I
> ripped into the axle and found the problem to be a
> broken axle shaft. The sad part is that the shaft
> broke exactly at the point where it passes through
> the
> bearing outboard of the third member destroying the
> bearing and the preloading nut.
>
> Has anyone out there ever had to set up one of these
> thirdmembers? The manual that I have does not cover
> this very well, it there another manual that is more
> detailed concerning driveline repair?
>
> Also, does anyone know the proper name for the
> cone-shaped fittings that go around the bolts and
> press into the recesses on the hub flanges? At
> first
> they look like lock washers because you can only see
> the very top, but in reality they look and act like
> an
> overgrown swagelock or compression fitting.
> They do their job well as it took much straining and
> aggrevation to get the hub flanges loose.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Boy, Brian, you're having FUN!!

First: to remove those axles, and the cones, the easiest way (You're
going to hate me when you see how easily this works) is to hit the
CENTER of the hub, the axle flange, with the biggest ball peen hammer
you have, usually four whacks does it. You'll see that the cones and
axle will jump loose and the cones can be picked off with your fingers.
What happens is that weight of the axle is caused to bounce in the hub
which forces it outward.

Now you may have to get the axle stub out, if it didn't trash the
bearing. This can be done by taking the opposite axle out and
inserting a rod that will go all the way through the differential gears
and contact the broken stub. Catch the stub with a piece of 1" pipe
with a pop can taped to the end to form a spoon, this will take two
people, one has to hit the rod while the other catches the stub. When
you withdraw the 1" pipe the pop can will grab the stub and allow you
to pull it out of the hub.

At least that's how I did it, and it worked that time. It'll keep you
from having to wrassle the differential until you get it home!!

As far as fixing the differential itself I'd get a whole unit and swap
it, you should have spares on hand anyway. I just bought a whole truck
as it cost about the same as buying two differentials already pulled at
the junk yard. It was a lost truck as the frame had been stretched
(poorly done) but the drive train components were good.

Try that and report back,

Joe F.
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