Re: [MV] Data plate restoration

Breeden (freebirds@erols.com)
Mon, 19 Jul 1999 21:02:49 -0400

Jim,

In regards to the stickers and data plates on M-715s, you might try the
M-715 zone. http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/them715zone
You can post a message there and see if anybody has any info on it. Or you
might look at the technical page at the main club site
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7406/

Hope this helps!

Harold
'67 M-715

----- Original Message -----
From: Winne, Jim <jwinne@nettally.com>
To: paul vandervort <pgv@imaxx.net>; John's mail <fly-fish@mindspring.com>
Cc: <mil-veh@skylee.com>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 1999 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] Data plate restoration

> Hi Paul and list,
>
> There is one plate on the M-715 dashplate that was obviously "screened on"
> in red. It was probably a warning about max speeds for transfer case
> positions. Try as I will, I can't make out what it says. Does anyone
know
> where on of these could be had?
>
> Also, there was a sticker on the dash to the left of the steering wheel
> that had warnings about driving conditions or lube intervals or something
> like that. How can I find out what this was and maybe get a photocopy?
>
> Tnx,
> Jim MVPA# 317216
> ----------
> > From: paul vandervort <pgv@imaxx.net>
> > To: John's mail <fly-fish@mindspring.com>
> > Cc: mil-veh@skylee.com
> > Subject: Re: [MV] Data plate restoration
> > Date: Thursday, July 15, 1999 3:01 AM
> >
> > John & all others interested
> >
> > I have done mine in the past. It is tedious, but with a little
> > practice, it can work out well. First, remove the plates from the
backing
> plate
> > they are riveted to (m38A1's are all riveted to a single backing plate,
> M38's
> > are individual plates attached to the dash with screws). You can get
> > replacement rivets from Beachwood, and other sources. Next, use paint
> stripper
> > to remove the old paint. Corrosion can be cleaned up by using some 800
to
> 1500
> > grit sandpaper (I use water paper; cleaner & you can see whats going
on).
> You
> > dont want to sand it very hard, just lightly to bring up some luster,
> sanding
> > on it too much will reduce the height of the letters & will make the
> later
> > steps even harder. Then use some polish for fine metals, (I use flitz),
> and
> > polish the letters & edges (you can use a dremmel tool also but be very
> > careful). M38 & 38A1 plates are brass so the are easy to work with.
Once
> the
> > letters & edges are polished, clean it with some laquer thinner, and
> paint it
> > with flat or gloss black (flat is easier to remove in next step). Apply
> the
> > black just enough to cover the depressed areas. Next take some 1500 to
> 2000
> > grit sandpaper and place sandpaper on a flat surface (I use a peice of
> glass)
> > with grit side up, and place data plate face down & lightly rub data
> plateon
> > the paper until black is removed from high spots (letters & edges). Be
> light
> > with the pressure on the plate as you dont want to sand out too much of
> your
> > polishing job, or sand down & remove the black from the depressed areas.
> Some
> > repolishing might be in order. Next spray the face of the data plate
with
> a
> > spray can of either clear gloss, or clear with a satinn finish, which
> ever you
> > prefer. If you have a steady hand, you can save some time by applying
> some
> > grease (A VERY light coat!!) to the raised edge before applying the
> black. this
> > will allow the paint to be easy to remove, from the edge, before the
> final
> > sanding to remove the black from the lettering. I just did my M38A1
> plates
> > last summer & they look like new, so much I always get asked where I got
> the
> > new plates! I anyone would like pics of my plates I can supply them.
> Just my
> > experience, hope it helps. Sorry to be so lengthy.
> >
> > Paul Vandervort
> > MVPA 437
> >
> > John's mail wrote:
> >
> > > List,
> > >
> > > I know that somebody asked this in the past but I never saw a
> follow-up
> > > message on the issue. The data plates for my M38A1 are kind of
> obscured by
> > > paint, corrosion and time. Is there any good way to bring these back
> to
> > > life? Any responses would be helpful
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > John Edwards
> > > '53 M38A1 #36399
> > > MVPA #20392
> > >
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