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The purpose of the runflat and spacer is to provide adequate bead spacing
(wider than the rim) so that when the 2 rim halves are bolted together they
will seal when the bolts are tightened.
The ratchet strap method works O.K. with bias tires. but I have never had it
work on radials.
The air bottle method is great, in combination with high volume thru the
valve stem. Frustration if you don't have 2 people.
The acetylene/ether method is a death wish.
Personally, running 16.5's (15 degree bead) without tubes off road is a pain
if you run low inflation and unseat a bead. Ar you going to take that surge
bottel in the field?
It is also not acceptable to run tubes in 2 piece wheels in case you are
'dumb' enough to unbolt the wheel halves while there is air in the tube.
It'll blow you head off.
So, my point????
Buy a bucket of ASCOT tire and tube mounting compond or equivalent. this is a
very thick greasy paste. It is a potassium based oil soap, not petroleum
grease. Buy one of those BIG o-rings that are about 1 inch cross section, 16"
in O.D. (Myers tire supply or tuffy will have them) set the tire/wheel
assembly face down on a bucket or something tall enough that the assembly is
supported by the rim, not tire sidewall. Slime the o-ring thoroughly with
lube and slide over the back rim flange. (lube the flange and bead area
also). Press the o ring up against the bead area.
As you add air, the oring will maintain the seal until it climbs up the rim
to the bead seat. This has to be done as one constant flow of air, or the
seal will leak. If you lose seal, add more lube, push the o-ring back against
the tire bead and try again.
When the o-ring reaches the flange, it will momentarily flatten against the
rim flange, and then voila, it pops out! This whole operation is ysually less
than 5-10 psi, so it's a heck of a lots safer. Besides, I take the o-ring and
lube on the trail just in case.
P.S. Personally, I'd stick with the runflat...
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Mar 02 2000 - 22:30:31 PST