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The two chemicals that I have used are; Naval Jelly and RustMort.
Naval jelly works well on light surface rust on smaller parts and seems to leave a
rust reducing residue of some sort.
RustMort, purchased at auto paint stores, is a rust convertor. The rust is
converted to a black coating which can be painted. Be sure to wash toughly with
water before painting to remove and unconverted residues. It usually takes a
while for this stuff to work so I put it on and let it sit overnight.
Here's what I have discovered over the years that I've been at this.
I Remove what paint I can with chemical strippers. On multi layers of paint I use
50 grit or smaller sandpaper to scratch through the coats of paint so that the
stripper can get in. The stripper will work faster and you'll use less. Strange
that's not on instructions on the can??? I then mechanically remove the rest of
the paint with abrasive blast or, I use wire wheels or sanders. I then clean with
lacquer thinner and prime with Rustoleum. Notice that I said "abrasive blast"
rather than sand blast.
Several years ago I built a large sandblast cabinet out of 2 sheets of plywood, 1
sheet of masonite and a weekend of time. I started using sand but changed to
aluminum oxide, (AO) after talking to a professional blaster. He told me that
when a grain of sand hits a solid object it more or less explodes into smaller
pieces creating dust and releasing all sorts of bad things into the atmosphere.
AO shears apart. making smaller sharp edged particles, and as far as I know, does
not release the baddies that sand releases. I've been told AO can be used over up
to 10 times. I use it until I notice a lot of dust in the cabinet.
To deal with dust in the cabinet I use a large shop vac to suck the dust out of
the cabinet. I found that due to the fine dust the filter in the vac rapidly
became clogged and had to be cleaned. I then made a water trap out of a 5 gal
plastic bucket to put inline between the cabinet and the vac to collect some of
the dust. The 5 gal bucket water trap works pretty well and yields an inch or two
of muck when I empty it every so often.
I have a 6 Hp. compressor with a 60 gal. tank and found that it ran continually
and only gave me 80 to 90 psi when I blasted. Not real economical. I then bought
a old Ingersol Rand construction compressor at auction for $200. After some
repairs using Pyro Putty, (but that's another story) I get 105 cfm @ 125 psi so
the blasting progresses really well. A 5 gal tank of gas lasts for about 4 hours
so it ain't cheap either but now the noise is outside.
If the piece is totally rusted I knock off any scale rust then treat it with
RustMort. This RustMort works very well on frames where there are a lot of nooks
and crannies. Besides, let's be realistic, who's gonna see it anyway? I'm a firm
beliver that a good coat of paint hides a multitude of sins.
GL,
Buzz
On Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:01:55 -0800, you wrote:
>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>
>
>There's a metal conditioner out there that removes the residual microscopic
>rust. You apply it, and then just put your primer over it. What's its name....
>Anybody?
>
>B.
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