GPW First Run!! (long)

From: Kelly, Robert (Robert_Kelly@FCEINC.COM)
Date: Wed Jun 14 2000 - 06:58:06 PDT


Hi,

No real questions today, but feel free to comment...

Took my GPW for its first run last evening after work and in between rain
showers (You know I just can't catch a break).

Here is a quick run through of how things went:

Double checked all the fluid levels, rechecked and greased all the fittings
(what a pain), checked the tires.

Starting; Cold start, a little choke and it fires right up. Give a tiny bit
of throttle, let out the choke and it smooths right out. Seems to blow out a
little bit of bluish grey smoke at first, then clears up. I don't like that.
I'll have to see if that is something that continues. Are there any oil
additives that some of you recommend for older engines?

Driving...

Shifts as easily as can be expected, considering lack of syncros in rev and
first. Shifts much better/smoother than it did before I started. Only one
thing - if I want to down shift to 1st from second, I have to do as follows:
with clutch in, go directly from 2nd to 3rd, then neutral and when time is
right, go to 1st. If I try to go to 1st from second directly, it seems to
get stuck in second gear.

Good strong acceleration and power (relatively speaking of course).

Warms up quickly and stabilizes around 180-200 deg. Oil pressure between
30-35 psi at idle, warmed up, rising quickly to around 60 psi when rev-ed.
Ammeter must be hooked up backwards; it shows amps on the negative side just
under the half-way mark, then if headlights are put on, goes down closer to
center guage (please tell me its hooked up backwards).

Brakes; at least until my shoddy workmanship begins to tell and the axles
start spraying gear oil all over the brakes, I have excellent brakes that
stop pretty straight and above all, don't pull to either side.

Steering; Tracks straight without pulling to either side, steers smoothly
and easily without binding and the steering wheel only moves 2-3 inches
before having an effect. This is all in the steering gear box as I didn't do
anything to it to tighten it up. Everything else was replaced. Overall
steering is WAY tighter than it was before. I would like to fine tune the
toe in. Any "backyard mechanic" ways to check/adjust without specialized
tools or taking it to an alignment shop?

After run leak check:
Engine; No significant exterior leaks, slight seepage from oil pan,
possibly. I suspect it may be burning oil as the oil level was down just
slightly from where it was before starting. I will have to re-check it after
the oil has had time to redrain into the pan again to be sure. There does
appear to be a small crack in the block, just under and forward of the
distributor. It appears to be between #2 and #3 cylinders and is only
seeping a very small amount of coolant. I plan to use judicious amounts of
Stop-Leak. Any comments about the crack? Is it going to get worse? How
difficult/expensive to repair? Should I look for a new engine?

Transmission: nothing significant other than its quirkiness on downshifting.

Xfer case: Shifts positively and easily. Damn thing leaks like a sieve!
Could it be that it is just overfull (it is up to the filler hole) and the
leak/seepage/drips will eventually stop? If not, is there something I can
add something to the fluid that will swell the seals? I just don't plan to
pull it before winter.

Gas tank; I'm a little pissed about this one. Seems to have a small leak,
not sure where but must be near the top as I only noticed it after filing it
up. I paid good money to have this thing cleaned tested and repaired as
needed. It should not leak. Not happy.

Overall, I'm ecstatic! It runs and drives, despite the issues. There is some
small detailing I need to do, such as install data plates and windsield
studs, but its more or less ready.

Jim Gilmore, is the offer to stamp my data plates still good if you go to
the Medina Show?

Thanks,
Bob Kelly
42 GPW
North Royalton, Ohio



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