Hi Mike, regards to all and see you at the show.....
I think one of the obvious points here is that there's no external leakage
visible at all, and no obvious deficiencies in the bores or cylinder head
joint areas either.
Given that it's still losing water the distributor drive tube is the
obvious flaw, and unless someone tells you about it you'd drive yourself
mad trying to find where the leak was. I have seen jeep blocks stitched
externally with Metallock above and below the distributor / oil pump block
side areas and it can produce an effective repair on an engine that is
otherwise sound - especially usefull if you're poor (like me). Once you
have sleeved the distributor drive tube with a close-fitting copper sleeve
covered with gasket goo it is very unlikely ever to cause you further
problems on the leakage front, but Mike is quite right that the strength
of the block is inevitably compromised and a new engine is the optimum
solution. Unfortunately if you buy a used engine you are getting a
completely unknown quantity which could, at least in theory, be a pile of
junk and a bigger sinking fund for money than the one that was in it,
unless you buy one of Mike's units as he will stand by his guarantee.
Remember my K43 Chevrolet with the 270 in it Mike ? It had a Metallock
repair over 24" long in it right down one side and into the bellhousing
area. It performed well for over ten years that I used it before I sold
it to Mark, and he used it for a while before passing it on to you to
re-body for the 'Darling Buds' Probably still driving on that
engine.........
Come to think of it do you still have the back body floor at RR Services ?
Mark still has the pole gear and it would be worthwhile getting it all
back together.
Gordon
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jun 05 2001 - 23:18:33 PDT