With patience, you will not damage anything except the derelict screws.
First, use a sharp wrap of a small hammer (verses an all out crack with a
big one) on the screws from both the front and back (take the hub and drum
off as a unit). Be careful not to mushroom the back sides or you'll make
your job more difficult - these screws are soft. This will sometimes
separate the rusted parts (and is the first thing I do on every rusted screw
I take out). It may help to grind off the part of the screw that pokes out
the back side (it may have really rusted threads). After that, try a impact
driver (it's a hand tool that mounts a nice big bladed screw driver
attachment and when you hit it with a hammer, it twists). Properly support
the back of the hub to keep from damaging it or your drum. If that doesn't
work (it did in my case), countersink off the screw heads and drive the hub
out of the drum (with proper support and a wooden block). Then drill out
the screw shaft and use an easy out to remove the remainder. When
installing new screws, *lightly* coat them with anti seize. These screws
caused me just as much trouble.
Good luck!
Allen in Seattle
'55 M38A1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Horrocks, Aaron" <ACHb@pge.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 2:48 PM
Subject: [MV] M38-A1 Brakes (Post Kroil)
> (trying to get this list back on topic...)
>
> Still unable to remove screws on drum brake covers. Soaked with Kroil for
> several days, hammer, heated, and still they are stuck. I still have a few
> minor tricks up my sleeve, however I am very sure that these things are
not
> going to come out. Can anyone offer advice on drilling out these screws,
and
> replacement parts for whatever I might damage in the process?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Aaron Horrocks
> Historical Military Vehicle & Mopar Enthusiast
>
> "Parts should be preserved rather than restored, restored rather than
> replaced, and replaced only when essential."
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeepstuf@aol.com [mailto:Jeepstuf@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:54 AM
> To: mil-veh@mil-veh.org
> Subject: [MV] M38-A1 Brakes
>
>
> If you still have screw heads which aren't stripped out; take a few days
of
> soaking with Kroil or a lesser substitute use some heat (but not to where
> it's visibly red) and some light banging with a brass hammer. Then
unscrew.
> You can pull the drum and hub assy off and clean the screw threads from
the
> other side too. If the screw heads are stripped then drill away! You can
get
>
> reverse thread bits to back them out while drilling but since the other
side
>
> of the flange is open that's not so important here.
> Wes G.
> For those of you who don't devote the fullest respect to Kroil; Save your
> flames!
> And try a can....
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys, I need some help with my brakes.
>
>
> I have the rear axel of my '54 M38A1 on a table in my garage. The story so
> far:
> -Removed the wheel nuts, removed tire.
> -Removed hub cap (if you want to call it that) and large nut behind it
that
> locks onto the axel shaft.
>
> I am now unable to remove the drum brake covers. Cleaner, WD-40 and hammer
> have been unsuccessful. There are three flat head screws in this drum
> between the wheel bolts, are these what is holding on the brake drum? They
> are rusted tight in there, and I'm going to strip them out if I try to
> remove 'em with any more force. Should I try a torch to heat things up to
> remove those three screws? I really don't know what to do to remove these.
> Will I need to drill them out?
>
> Any advice would help. The hardest thing about restoring this vehicle is
> that I run into problems like this - parts stuck together!
>
>
> Aaron Horrocks
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Wed Feb 06 2002 - 11:49:27 PST