From: Claude W. Vaughn (vaughn@totalaccess.net)
Date: Tue Apr 23 2002 - 07:07:34 PDT
Travis,
Sounds like you need to stay away from Mac's Jeep Parts. Hope you get your
money back.
I recommend you try several bearing retailers (not auto parts stores... use a
bearing shop). Check prices at several dealers before you buy. The same
bearing sold as an Industrial bearing may cost twice as much as a bearing sold
as an automotive bearing. Same for oil seals.
Try these numbers:
A-924 ... this is the Willys part number (from a WW-II parts book)
GP-7718-A ... this is the Ford part number (from a WW-II parts book)
94322 ... this is the Hyatt bearing number (from a WW-II parts book)
J241644 ... this is the Bower bearing number (from a Bower master interchange
book)
If you do not have a parts manual, I recommend you order one from the MVPA or
Portrayal Press. Jeep parts suppliers should also have manuals for sale. Also
get the maintenance manual if you do not have one.
I assume you will be replacing the seals also. Generally, the advice for seals
is the same. Go to the bearing supplier. Tell the counterman what you are
working on (WW-II Jeep, a 1943 Ford Jeep), it will peak his interest. Ask that
they explain the different materials used in seal construction and "sealing lip"
designs. And ask yourself... are you doing a "100 point" restoration of the
jeep, or will you settle for something less than 100 percent original if it
means you will have fewer leaks. I like fewer leaks... I like neoprene seals
with double sealing lips. NOS original seals will most likely be leather / felt
seals. If the leather / felt seals get wet and then sit for a while, rust will
form and the sealing surface will tear when it is turned. Instant leak.
Also, when you fill that transfer case (also transmission, differentials and
steering gearbox), you can just use plain 90 weight mineral oil. Recommendation
from a local old tractor restorer. He said that John Deere stated the additives
used in "modern" gear oils could damage the bronze parts (if present) in old
power transmission units. I change gear oil yearly. Another recommendation,
is to drive the vehicle every 21 days (another old timer, former motor pool
type) until engine and drive train reach operating temperature. Everything gets
coated with oil or grease, and the condensation is, hopefully, evaporated.
Oops! I don't always do this! But I should.
Hope this helps.
Claude.
"Travis S." wrote:
> I have a 1943 GPW and I need to replace the 2 transfer case bearings that
> sit side by side on the shaft closest to the transmission. I took one of the
> bearings to Mac's Jeep Part's in Corvallis OR and he told me that it was
> definitely the Timken 14131 so I ordered a couple and they are not the right
> bearing at all. The 14131 is a tapered bearing and that's not what I need,
> the bearings I have are about the size and shape of a spool of thread does
> anyone know what the proper part number for this bearing is? I've been told
> 14121 also and when I took this to the part's house they said $123.00 each
> but the 14131 is only $15.00 each what's the story? Help! I need to get my
> t-case back in operation.
>
> Travis.
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