Re: [MV] Hot Floorboard in M35 - heat/vibration dampening

From: Nathan Wilkens (nathan.wilkens@asu.edu)
Date: Mon Jun 10 2002 - 20:50:32 PDT


Jim/Robert/everyone -

Just wanted to agree with Jim on the brownbread viscoelastic dampener.. I
went through my M1009 prior to a big road trip through the rockies, with the
sole desire of reducing noise. The product that worked (by far) the best
was this brownbread stuff. I purchased some from a local stereo shop where
it was used to eliminated the vibration from super loud bass speakers in
custom low-riders; it was the cheapest product around for eliminating
vibration. I lined the entire inside of the door shells, and it cut the
noise down greatly. But the best effect is that the doors now shut with a
solid 'thud' - even though they don't weigh much more at all.

However, when it comes to putting any of this stuff on the flooring, I'm not
sure I wouldn't use a spray in bed liner directly on the cleaned surface
instead. I think it would be alot quicker and easier to take the seats out
and let the bed-liner folks go crazy, rather than try to use this kind of
product on such a large surface area. I'd also be a bit worried that it
would melt, or at least get a bit gooey under the feet. The brownbread was
really easy to install on an Arizona 110 degree day, and hasn't shifted a
bit (it sticks super well), but the door shell (even in Arizona) would never
get as hot as the floorboards up near the engine and transmission. Beware
the stuff you spray in yourself though - several years ago I used some
tar-based noise dampener on the bed of a pickup I had, and it never stopped
stinking horribly like tar. I hear that the newest professional spray-in
liners don't have this problem.

Just some thoughts...
Nathan Wilkens

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Newton" <jnewton@laurel.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] Hot Floorboard in M35

Hi Robert...

>I have an M35A2C with a Continental LDT-465-1C Multifuel engine. On a
>recent 45 mile outing ona 90+degree day I noticed that the floorboard
>are in the drivers side(don't know about the passenger side) was getting
>really warm, to the point of being uncomfortable. The temp guage was
>showing about 180 degrees with good oil pressure. I was traveling at
>speeds from 50 to 55 almost the whole trip. Is this normal due the lose
>proximity ro the large chunk of steel called the engine block if so can
>any insulation be put in place to lessen the heat. If there is a
>possible problem, please let me know also.

It isn't a problem...that's the way they are. Once a deuce heats up
and the heat finally transfers from the engine to the transmission and
other undercarriage components, it really heats up the air under
there, and as a result, the floor gets hot.

I am considering putting down the same viscoelastic sound deadening
material such as I mentioned I will use on my M1007 in my last message
("http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html") but this time for heat
insulation instead of sound, and putting rubber mats over the top. I
am alternately considering applying the material to the bottom side of
the floor panels so I will retain the steel floor and not have ugly
black rubber. Either of these applications should keep the heat out.
Also, be sure to check all the openings that lead from your engine
compartment and under the floorboards into the cab. The brake door
flap, shifter boot, and any other openings that are not sealed will
allow hot air to stream in from under the truck. This is NICE in the
winter, but very fatiguing in the summer after a 300 or 400 mile
drive. I know...I do this almost every month year around.

Good luck!

--

Jim "Ike" Newton

o 1984 M1007 CUCV Military Suburban 6.2 Liter Turbo-Diesel Engine 5/4 Ton Cargo Capacity, 4WD

o 1971 M35A2 Military Troop/Cargo Truck "Deuce and a Half" 478 Cubic Inch Turbo-Diesel Multi-Fuel Engine Air Shift Front Axle 2 1/2 Ton Cargo Capacity, 6WD

See them at: http://www.CUCV.net

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