Re: [MV] M35 steering spindle nuts

From: Bjorn Brandstedt (super_deuce@hotmail.com)
Date: Sun Sep 22 2002 - 07:03:56 PDT


>From: wwd@netheaven.com
>To: <mil-veh@mil-veh.org> (Military Vehicles Mailing List)
>Subject: Re: [MV] M35 steering spindle nuts
>Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 08:52:31 -0400
>
> "Bjorn Brandstedt" <super_deuce@hotmail.com> said:
>
> > Tested a commercial grade bolt and it
> >failed at about 25 ft-lb.
>
>?? Was it 3/16" or thinner?! 25 ft-lb is not a whole helluva lot. About
>the max you would use for sparkplug into an aluminum head. About what you
>get using a 4" handy-ratchet without straining. [Grade 5=commercial;
>grade 3= 'hardware store']
>
> >The grade 8 cap screw was tightened to 75
> >ft-lb and came apart afterwards without any sign of failure.
> >My manuals specify 45 to 50 ft-lb for grade 8 and 20 to 23 for commercial
> > grade.There is a difference between wet (oiled) and dry, these numbers
> >apply to dry assemblies.
> >Back to the spindle on the truck, after i discovered the problem with the
> > nuts, I called the Rockwell tech line (the manufacturer of the axle) and
> >was told that the nuts must be grade 8 and torqued to 45 to 50 ft-lb. I
> >believe that the manual calls out lock washers also, however, a properly
> >torqued bolt assembly doesn't need lock washers, the tension in the bolt
> >(cap screw) is what holds it together.
>
>A new, sharp lockwasher is better for grade 5 (or 3) nuts so it can cut
>into the nut and do what it is supposed to do. Also, there are different
>grades of lockwashers and washers which complicates their casual use.
>Better to use 'nylock' nuts for normal temperature situations or 'wrinkle'
>nuts where heat could soften nylon. Then you 'know what you got' for those
>critical places.
>
>Also remember there is Locktite which comes in 3 grades: 1-regular,
>2-'needs exact wrenches and exercise to get apart' and 3- 'forget about
>it' (torch or grind). Loctite is our friend...
>
> >When a lock washer is used and the assembly tightened, the lock washer
> >does nothing, it only works for a while after the assembly has loosend
> >up and then it's too late any way. Torquing is VERY important. Most cap
> >screw assemblies on the deuce do not use lock washers.
>
>Using a torque wrench (or those 'torque-flex-extender' abominations) is
>indeed an Art. I think that K-D tools or Lyle tools should make a
>wall-mounted gauge so you could do a test run with the same breaker bar in
>your hand that you are going to use on the vehicle/victim. Then you could
>get a pre-flight feel for just how much 'maumoo' is needed to achieve the
>specified torque.
>
> >Bjorn
>
>Cosmo Lean [knuckledraggerus sapiens]
>
>

"Hardware store" grade, 3/8" (no markings on the head). Failed at 25 ft-lb.

Bjorn

>
>
>
>
>~~~
>
>
>
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