From: Marc Strangfeld (curlyjoe98@yahoo.com)
Date: Tue Jul 22 2003 - 18:27:25 PDT
Greg
The hub was running hot when compared to the other
three. After a 30 mile trip @45mph (running empty) I
am able to hold my hand somewhat firmly for about 5
sec before it is uncomfortable. Not very scientific,
but I do it for comparison mainly. Don't know if they
should be this hot or not, but they haven't seized
yet. It would be one trick setup to have temp.
sensors in each wheel with corresponding gages in the
cab.
If you knock the engine speed down to 2200 rpm, do the
decibels drop off a lot? Where in the cab are these
readings taken? Hard top, soft top, no top, window
up, window down?
Marc
--- Greg <czechsix@cox.net> wrote:
> Hello Marc and other listers,
>
> You mention that the hub was running hot. How hot is
> too hot on a deuce?
> Should you be able to keep your hand on the hub
> after, say, a thirty mile
> trip at 45 mph? What's normal for these trucks? I
> know that the diffs run
> very hot, but does that translate into hub temp
> also?
>
> On another note, I finished the exhaust muffler
> installation yesterday. It's
> a vertical stack muffler with rain cap. Before, with
> the stock exhaust, I
> registered 116 decibels going down the highway (5th
> gear @ 2400, on a flat).
> With the muffler it's 102 decibels during the same
> conditions. Still loud,
> but much better. As to the drivetrain noise - yep,
> those straight cut gears
> whine pretty loud.
>
>
> Greg
> Vista, CA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marc Strangfeld" <curlyjoe98@yahoo.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List"
> <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 10:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [MV] New M35A2 Rear outer axle Seal
> problems (still)
>
>
> > Kirk
> >
> > You are not alone.
> > I've had the same issues.
> > My advice would be to try a different seal. I had
> one
> > hub that was running hot so I jacked it up and
> backed
> > the bearings off a little. Then the hub leaked.
> So,
> > apart it came apart again and I discovered that
> the
> > outer seal was deformed slightly when compared to
> a
> > new seal. Put a new seal in and so far so good.
> >
> > Sam Winer motors sells new seals from Rockwell,
> but
> > make sure your sitting down when he tells you the
> > price. (At least double). I used seals from
> Antelope
> > Valley with good results.
> >
> > As far as your bearing, do you know it isn't
> right? I
> > would think it to be in your best interest to get
> the
> > right one. If the bearing you are using is
> thicker
> > than OEM, then that may be preventing the seal
> from,
> > well, sealing.
> >
> >
> > Good luck
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > --- Kirk Thompson <kpt@lanl.gov> wrote:
> > > Hi all.
> > >
> > > I am still having terrible luck at getting the
> rear
> > > outer axle seal to
> > > seal. After thorough cleaning and careful
> > > inspection, it appears that the
> > > seal lip is barely in contact with the hub race
> > > edge. The keyway is sealed
> > > w/ the cork gasket and RTV and the last time I
> tore
> > > it all apart, it was fine.
> > >
> > > I'm thinking two things:
> > > 1. The seals I have been getting from Memphis
> are
> > > NOS and the rubber has
> > > shrunk just enough to not allow a good contact
> with
> > > the race edge.
> > > Is there somewhere that I can get a new seal
> instead
> > > of NOS? I have done
> > > this wheel 4 times now ( I screwed up once and
> put
> > > seal in backwards) and
> > > although I am getting pretty good at it (except
> for
> > > it not sealing), it is
> > > getting old...
> > > 2. The outer bearing (Timken 392) is not really
> the
> > > correct one and the OEM
> > > bearing has a slightly "thinner" profile.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > -K
> > >
> > >
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