From: chance wolf (chance_wolf@shaw.ca)
Date: Sat Feb 28 2004 - 14:42:53 PST
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Stockly" <grant@stockly.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 2:44 AM
Subject: [MV] Turbo Sound / Dash Lights / Nuclear Switch
> Are the dash lights supposed to be turned off by the main electrical
> switch? The dash lights stayed on when I turned the switch to off. I
> didn't see, but are there high beams on the thing?
Dash lights are controlled by the leftmost bottom lever of the three lever
light switch. If your top switch is standing straight up-and-down, all the
lights in the system should be off. Some of the switches are very poorly
manufactured and get 'mushy' with respect to their individual 'stop'
positions, and some of the topmost switches appear to be in the OFF
position, where in reality they're selecting the setting either side of OFF.
The three lever lightswitch unit itself also likes to fail randomly when it
begins to get tired inside, leaving you with intermittent lights - lights
that won't go off - lights that won't turn on - and any and all combinations
of the lot. I get the impression that those switches manufactured on later
contracts made extensive use of plastics and other 'cut corners' materiel,
and it shows in their reliability versus the 1950's/1960's types.
> thing). But it didn't whistle like the other M35 I heard at the truck
> yard.
Some whistle, some don't. It's been on the list several times already but I
wasn't paying much attention - I think it's all about who makes the actual
turbo unit.
> The spare tire carrier isn't missing, I think. Just the spare tire. I'm
> not sure how the spare tire carrier works, it might even all be
> present.
Quite a few dealers out there (check "Supply Line" and "Military Vehicles
Magazine" or search on the net) have the -10 "Operator's Manual" for the M35
trucks. They're cheap too. You should probably also pick up the -20 manual
too.
> Everything looks in great shape...and other than backing up with
> the winter canvas, I love it!!!
They're great fun! They drive like pickup trucks once you get past the idea
that you're "driving a big vehicle" (though that should never be forgotten,
of course), and they're really very maneuverable for a creature their size.
Make sure you have really good mirrors. The Military used a few different
styles, but the West Coast type are the only ones you should even consider
if you're regularly driving the thing - especially with a trailer. The ones
at work in regular use all have the West Coast style, and have 9" convex
mirrors added to the pass. side for extra visibility.
> And lastly, I think I remember the nuclear war switch in the middle saying
> soemthing about it turning off the electrical system. Why does it need to
> do that? Can't it just turn off the vents? Should I turn the electrical
> switch off or pull the engine stop knob first? :)
I think the "Nuclear War" switch you have on the dashboard is a hold-over
from the Southwind heater it must've had at some point. My old 1962 M151
had the same thing, and I believe it's purpose was to shut everything off
quickly so no contamination would find its way into the heater (since a
heater would be really hard to decontaminate with the decontamination gear
from the inside.)
The electrical switch should be turned off first, then pull the Engine Stop
handle. Later mode trucks have a redesigned On-Off switch lever with a
longer lever which overlaps the Engine Stop handle when the truck is
running, forcing you to turn the On Off switch to "Off" before you're even
able to touch to the Engine Stop handle. I think the reasons for this
particular sequence are: a) it stops the alternator from delivering any
'surge' to any communications gear fitted, and; b) it stops you leaving the
ignition switch on and fuel pump running by accident once you pull the
starve lever, hear the engine stop, and figure you're done.
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