From: everette (194cbteng@bellsouth.net)
Date: Mon May 17 2004 - 13:39:06 PDT
Most probably the active ingredient in "Ospho" is phosphoric acid, that is
reason some metals vanished, but do not be too alarmed, some soft drinks
also have phosphoric acid., and citric acid in them, and as you know our
stomach normally has hydrochloric acid in it.
Some rust "preventative" products use an alkaline phosphate that will leave
a deposit that can be painted over, some solutions use phosphoric acid that
on steel surfaces in a concentration that they do not have to rinse off and
when it dries there is a faint white powder on surface that will keep steel
from rusting for several hours and does not have to be removed before items
are painted.
It is an exact science preparing steel for painting; drawing oil, cutting
oil. stamping oil, etc. have to be removed with some specialized detergents,
and something done to new steel between washing and painting to prevent
rust. Many thousands of dollars are spent getting this process just right.
Everette
----- Original Message -----
From: "Claude W. Vaughn" <vaughn@totalaccess.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] Rust in lamp housing
Paul,
I like "Ospho". Should be available in hardware and paint stores. Search
for it on Google and read about it. It is a great rust remover too. Just
don't leave high carbon metals, or "white" metals in it for any extended
time
(I am still looking for a small part or two... "did I loose them in the shop
or did they become that black goo in the bottom of the plastic coffee jar").
White or pot metals will be dissolved quite quickly if immersed in the
product.
I often get a bit anal about rust and brush Ospho on an area such as your
tail lamp housing, let it stand a few minutes, re-wet the area with Ospho
and
use a stainless steel scouring pad, a "Scotch-Brite" pad, or dental picks to
remove all traces of the rust.
Claude.
"Paul A. Thomas" wrote:
> I know it's been asked before, but as I can't search the list archives
> and as there are more products than I have hairs left on my head.... Do
> you have a favorite rust killer? One which would go through that 1-3 mil
> layer and neutralize it before priming it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
>
> ************************
>
> If you blast pitted areas like in the picture long enough and from
> different angles you can get most of it shinny again but rust will creep
> out of the pits if it is not treated. I would recommend priming bare
> metal the same day you sandblast it. Even metal under good paint will
> start to rust as soon as it is exposed to moist air.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Sat May 07 2005 - 20:29:58 PDT