Re: [MV] STARTING DIESELS WHEN COLD !

From: noel shelley (noel@shelley1722.freeserve.co.uk)
Date: Sun Nov 07 2004 - 06:52:34 PST


tell me more.

My Pleasure Bjorn , and good afternoon the rest ,forgive me if I bore some
of you !
                                 Gordon Equipments Ltd , www.durite.co.uk
Part No 0-131-54 = 11.5v 12.5 a 3.5-5 cc/min Fuel flow .
Part No 0-131-55 = 23v 9a 11-15 cc/min fuel flow.
Both are 7/8" UNF 14 thread .
These parts are available from Perkins Diesels stockists in the US so I`m
told !
I will transcribe from a 1962 Perkins manual ---
The cold start unit comprises a tubular valve body carried in a holder which
screws into the inlet manifold & surrounded by a heater coil , an extension
of which forms a igniter coil. The valve body houses a needle , the stem of
which holds a ball valve in position against it`s seating . The whole is
surrounded by an open perforated shield . Fuel oil from the reservoir enters
through an adaptor .
When cold the ball valve is held closed . On switching on the coil , the
valve body is heated and expands, opening the ball valve and permitting the
entry of fuel . The fuel is vaporised by the heat of the valve body and when
the engine is cranked and air is drawn into the manifold , the vapour is
ignited by the coil extension and continues to burn , thus heating the inlet
air .
When the coil is switched off , the flow of air in the manifold cools the
valve body rapidly and the valve closes .
I will paraphrase the rest !
Operate switch for 15 secs, 20 secs in colder weather , throttle wide open
crank engine , if no start in 10-15 secs release starter , continue to heat
for 10secs ,recrank .

You don`t need a lift pump to use one of these devices , any small vessel
will do to feed fuel DOWN to it ! I have a little metal container with a
fitting in the bottom that is piped to the unit in my mv Landrover with a
Perkins 4-203 , I just have to remember to fill it up every week or two .

The proper system was to use a reservoir that had three tapping , the top
one
was the return line from the engine , the middle one then went back to the
tank and the bottom one then fed the heater unit . There is a vent in the
top that allows the fuel to drain to the heater , without this the fuel is
held under vacuum , BUT in my case the fuel lines would not let the fuel
drain back to the tank fast enough and it would spill from the vent due to
the length and dia of the return line being too small .There are ways to
cure this , I`m just toooo lazy !
There is also another reservoir that had a VERY lightly loaded non return in
the top to break the vacuum but this needed to be high enough to lift the
return .
A plastic
coke bottle would do and have the advantage of showing the fuel level ,if a
pipe was fitted in the bottom and would last a month between fills . BUT
the real advantage is that you can heat as long as you want , whereas if
it`s fed from the sealed return as fitted on later engines you only get fuel
as the engine is cranked
as most pumps will loose pressure standing overnight . I heat mine until I
hear the woomph in the manifold that tells that the fire is alight , then I
crank and she fires straight away ------- the batteries arn`t that good and
I sometimes only have one chance !
The cost of the little reservoir and additional piping was why they went
over
to the sealed system and it`s not as good ! {see above }
If it can`t be screwed into the manifold , then it is easy enough to mount
in a short steel tube with a nut brazed on , fitted into the intake pipe .
BUT do not fit so close to the air filter that if of the paper type it can
set it on fire , which was known to happen on a type of Ford .

Best wishes and good luck Noel



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