From: John Souza (John.Souza@ci.fresno.ca.us)
Date: Thu Jul 28 2005 - 20:52:39 PDT
Oil will not wash the grease off the bearings and if it does so what. Then the bearings are fed with oil which is exactly what the rear end bearings, transmission, transfer, winch, etc are fed with.
I do not place the outer seal on. I pack the bearings with a "bearing packer" by surepak. It squeezes the grease into the bearings. I then lower the other hub all the way to the floor or as far as it will go. I then place the hub with the inner bearing on the spindle. Before placing the outer bearing on, I get the 90 wt. gear oil and fill the bottom of the hub with 90 wt gear oil. I fill it to it almost runs out the lower edge. I then slap on the out bearing and the nut. I tight the nut using a wheel bearing wrench tight until the tire will not move (this will seat teh bearings) and then I back it off until the tire will spin 1 turn with little effort. Then, on goes the washer and the out nut. The out nut you can tight till the cows come home. It it only tighting against the inner nut. Then try and spin the tire again. It may tighten up due to the "draw up" of the slack in the threads. So you may have to take it off and loosen the inner nut and repeat.
I learned this from my dad who worked on his Chevy 1 1/2 tons in the 1940's to the Peterbuilt Class 8's that he owned and operated until he retired about 20 years ago. He never burned a bearing.
The inner seals on the M35's are terrible in my opinion, as they ride on edge of the race. The 5 tons are better. If they were such a great setup, you would see them on civilian trucks.
John Souza
MVPA #2697
Fresno, CA
>>> Patrick Jankowiak <recycler@swbell.net> 07/28/05 7:31 PM >>>
I have seen the rear hubs warm, but never too hot to keep my hand
on for a while. To my knowledge there is only one spec of outer
seal, and one spec of inner seal. Here is a web page containing
much wisdom of the group and a picture or two.
Could it be that the bearings are not adequately packed with
grease? In any case, not not ever leave the seals off orthe diff
oil will wash all the grease out of the bearings. Check the part
numbers you used, and see the web page, there may be part numbers
there to compare.
A friendly phone call to a company that rebuilds these trucks
might help. memphis equipment company has been helpful to me before.
http://rawfire.torche.com/~opcom/axle/index.html
PJ
jonathon wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> Trying to get ready for the Iola WI show and did a brake job on the M35
> including all new bearings and seals, also did the M105 Trailer. In case
> your asking why, I found a large number of very pitted bearings, also
> several oil soaked brakes. But anyway, took the rig out for a test drive,
> the front hubs and the hubs on the trailer are running at best warm as I
> would expect, but all 4 rear hubs are so hot that you can hold your hand on
> them for all of 1 or 2 seconds. I figured perhaps I had set the bearings to
> tight, so I Ioosened all 4 of them and repeated the test, same result, but
> this time I noticed that the source of the heat was clearly in the vicinity
> of the outer bearing. Upon closer examination I could see that as I would
> tighten up the inner nut, the seal would contact the outer bearing cup and
> then start deflecting, thus putting some amount of axial force on the seal
> contact area that is perhaps more than it should be. It's hard to imaging
> that this is the source of the heat as my test drive was all of 8 miles, but
> I see no other explanation at this point.
>
> Has anyone here replaced bearings and seals on the rear hubs and seen this?
> Are there perhaps different versions of the seal, one that might have less
> lip protrusion perhaps??? Has anyone tried running without the outer seals?
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> later,
>
> je
>
>
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