From: MV (MV@dc9.tzo.com)
Date: Mon Oct 31 2005 - 16:43:15 PST
I would just replace the seal and don't worry about the rest if it isn't
leaking. It's lasted this long, it might go for another 10 years before
it springs a leak someplace else.
This is from my experience with Auto and truck diffs.
I believe what you need to do is to remove the driveshaft, and somehow
hold the pinion flange and use a big airwrench to remove the pinion nut.
I doubt that a 1/2" drive will do it, but I would guess that a good
3/4 drive would. Then you need to remove the pinion flange, that
normally takes a puller. Then you should be able to get the seal out.
I believe the tricky part about the reinstallation is to make sure not
to overtorque the pinion nut. If you do the pinion tapered bearing will
fail. If you undertorque them the pinion bearings will run loose and
probably help the gear train die an early death. Pinion preload on the
bearing is usually pretty important. I'd read the TM extensively before
doing that repair! If you have the right tools that should be a fairly
easy job. If you don't it could take a very long time. You may be able
to hold the pinion flange with a large pipewrench. It might mark up the
flange a bit, but the alternative is to make a holding fixture. If you
have some plate steel and a plasma cutter or cutting torch it should not
be too difficult to make a holding fixture.
Dave
Michael Farrell wrote:
> The front differetial is leaking fluid from the top where the drive shaft
> connects to the diff via a universal join... I have heard people talking
> before about the gaskets on the diffs to know it is somewhat complicated.
> Should I replace all the gaskets in the differecial all at one time. As long
> as I am working on that axle, should I do the rear seals. I have never taken
> one of these big monsters apart. I am close to an AFB so I can use the auto
> skills for tools. Is this something I can do in a weekend project?
>
> Mike Farrell
>
>
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