inverted "easy out".......

From: Everette (194cbteng@bellsouth.net)
Date: Fri Nov 18 2005 - 06:29:30 PST


MV] inverted "easy out".......
Buzz wrote what years of experience has caused me to follow in removing
broken bolts. I also have occacasion to remove broken pipe, that has broken
off inside some sort of filling, elbow, tee, coupling, etc. I have found
that the reverse twist spiral ez-outs do the same thing to pipe that they do
to bolts, swell them even tighter. I use an ez-out that is square, and
slightly tapered and has cutting edge on corners, comes in varoius sizes. I
drive it in with hammer and then un-screw with wrench. Even this has failed
a few times, it cuts inside of pipe but does not catch enough to unscrew the
pipe, however, after a few attempts, stopping before I cut into threads of
fitting, I can take small cutting punch and peel pipe away from threads,
sometimes peel some back and the ez-out will catch again. This is most
times accompained by use of penetrating oil.

Everette

Listers,
To remove broken bolts on old equipment I assume that the bolt is rusted and
that's why it broke. Especially head bolts, or studs, that go into the
water
jacket. I don't like using heat because that plays havoc with the temper of
the
metal. I've never had much luck welding on nuts because I couldn't get the
proper penetration. Speaking of penetration, penetrating oil will break the
surface rust bond, but after a week it only penetrated a few threads. If I
can
get the bolt or nut to move a little then I add more penetrating oil and
work it
in and out a little at a time until it comes off.
Back to the original problem.... get the drill. If the part is broken off
below
the surface I use the proper size transfer punch to punch it exactly in the
center, then follow up with a regular center punch. I usually start with a
center drill, then a SHARP 1/8" drill. I use enough force to remove material
but
not so much that I bend the drill. If too much force is used the drill will
bend and go off center.
I then start using left hand drills 1/16" at a time, up to just below the
tap
hole size. If the piece is still in the threads then I tap the hole.
Usually
what happens is that as I approach the size of the broken piece it'll spin
out
of the hole.
Forget about eze-outs they just break, then your in REAL trouble. The only
time
that I've had good results with eze-outs is if the bolt was new and broke
from
over tightening, or was sheared off. If I use eze-outs I like the square
ones.
The left hand threaded ones seem to swell the bolt then it is tighter.

BTW buy a GOOD set of drills because if you come up against a class 8 bolt
you're gonna need a good drill.



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