From: Chance Wolf (bigbadwolf@telus.net)
Date: Fri Mar 03 2006 - 08:26:47 PST
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arthur Bloom" <m35prod@optonline.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 7:05 AM
Subject: [MV] M998 question
> My M998 refused to start. The voltmeter indicates that the glow plugs are
> not operating i.e., there is no decrease in battery voltage upon
initiating
> the glow cycle....a good indicator of battery voltage and condition also.
>
> I had a spare "protection" box, I thought. I removed the original and to
my
> dismay, the spare had an extra Cannon socket next to the "normal" socket
> that the engine compartment plugs into. Therefore, I was unable to safely
> use the spare. I also ordered a glow plug controller found on the cross
> tube of the coolant.
I've had a lot of the Ebay PCBs "used take-out" and most either a) Won't
trigger the starter; b) won't trigger the glow plug relay; c) won't turn on
the 'wait' light; or d) introduce high resistance in the charging circuit.
I've done a few post-mortems and most seem to be outright relay failures,
and many had significant water ingress as well. I've cobbled together a
couple of functional spares by cannibalizing defunct ones, but I still have
a stack of the kind which have their main circuit boards covered in epoxy
which are essentially irreparable.
>From what I remember, the PCBs with the two top Cannon connectors were for a
version of the glow-plug system which deleted the sensor/controller mounted
in the cross-tube. Pretty sure the early ones caused fires and were all
recalled; either way, I wouldn't think they'd be interchangeable with the
single-plug kind as on the two-plug variety, the second plug output goes
straight to the glow plugs where the single-plug variety has the glow-plug
output integral with the harness.
You can check whether your glow plug controller/sensor or your PCB is at
fault by taking the round connector off of the top of the glow plug
controller and looking for Pin 3. If you feed 24V to pin 3, the relay in th
e PCB should click, and you should get both the WAIT light and 24V at the
glow plugs. (It's probably better to disconnect your glow plugs first if
you plan on playing a bit.) If you don't, you either have a PCB problem or
a harness problem. Out of all the ones I've had to deal with, I've had one
harness problem vs. something like 8-9 PCB failures, and even the 'harness
problem' was caused by far too many connect/disconnect operations where it
screws in to the top of the PCB resulting in wire failure where it enters
the back of the Cannon plug.
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