Military Vehicles, March 1997,: Re: Rust in engine on 1942 Willys MB

Re: Rust in engine on 1942 Willys MB

dunlops@racotek.com
Sun, 18 Feb 96 18:33:18


> Some weeks ago I bought a WILLYS MB 12/1944.
> The engine hasn't run for about 15 years.
> The farmer from who I bought this beauty has been foreseen and remove
> the waterpump and the thermostat so the engine would not freeze.

Your best bet is to temporarily install a scrap water pump and flush
the cooling system with a heavy-duty acid flush solution (available at
most auto parts stores) as per label instructions. This is normally
done with the engine running. The acid will dissolve any loose rust
and scale. Water pumps for MB engines are inexpensive and widely
available here in the states; if you can't get them you could try
filling the block with the flushing solution and letting it stand for a
while, then draining it out or flushing with a hose.

> 2) When you have a engine that hasn't been run for about 15 years
> the first thing to do is to change the oil and other lubricants.

I use multi-viscosity, detergent motor oil in my engine, usually of SAE
5W-30 due to the harshness of Minnesota winters. I have done this for
5 years with no problems. Any brand and grade available today will
work fine. You can use the same stuff you put in your car.

> For transmission, transfer case and differentials SAE90.

I use 85W-90 GL-5 detergent gear oil, which is widely available. I had
to replace *all* the seals in these assemblies as they were leaking
badly when I bought my CJ2, so the seals are of newer seal material. I
have heard that detergent oil can contribute to failure of early-type
seals. Perhaps some other members of the list have some experience with
this. 85W-90 GL-5 oil is widely available although newer cars and
trucks have started using lighter lubricants.

Is brake fluid we currently find suitable to use in the brakesystem ?

Yes, although you may wish to switch to a silicone brake fluid (type
DOT5 in the US) if you are rebuilding the braking system. It doesn't
create the corrosion problems that the hygroscopic glycol/alcohol based
fluid does. The MB brake master cylinder is open to the atmosphere
unlike newer sealed types, so moisture is absorbed by the fluid and
this leads to corrosion. Because the two types of fluid are
incompatible you have to make the switch during a rebuild.

-Steve Dunlop
Minneapolis, MN, USA