If the piston is rusted in place, there is almost certainly FAR too
much rust to safely hone out the cylinder. Master cylinders and wheel
cylinders can only tolerate a slight amount of honing. Even a tiny bit
too much can result in seal failure, or even binding/scuffing of the
piston. If you can't find a new (or good used) master cylinder, you can
have the old master cylinder bored out and sleeved. The other list
members should be able to suggest some good sources for replacement WC
> Next, inside the master cylinder fluid resevoir, at the bottom, there
> are two small holes. Obviously to allow fluid passage. It looks like
> one of the holes is actually drilled completely through into the
> on the other side. The other hole seemst to stop about half way,
> therefore going nowhere. Is this hole actually clogged?
Depending on the master cylinder, you may discover a very small
orifice/restriction machined in the hole that appears to be clogged.
You should buy or borrow a good general text on brake rebuilding before
you go any further. It is HIGHLY likely that you will end up having to
replace brake lines, hoses, and wheel cylinders, especially if you
found rust in the system. Brakes are obviously crucial to safety, and
there are some seemingly trivial things that if done wrong can have
serious consequences. Proper materials, tube flaring technique, tube
bending and tightening methods, alignment of parts, etc. all have to be
This doesn't mean that you shouldn't go ahead and tackle this yourself.
Brakes are NOT really difficult to work on. Just read up on all of the
basics before proceeding.
(Salt Lake City, Utah)
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