For instance, someone suggested using a pump up lawn and garden sprayer
to pressure bleed brakes. (That's a great idea!) Why not spend an
hour making an adapter from the garden sprayer hose, hook it up to your
brake system, (a cap bolted/clamped over the master cylinder) and pump a
couple of gallons of ethanol through the brake system with all of the
bleed screws open. That should get rid of just about all of the DOT 3
stuff, then hook up your air compressor to the same fitting and blow out
remainder of the Alcohol. That should make the interior of the brake
system plenty clean plus Alcohol free with all of that air blowing
through it and drying it. Then loadup the the garden sprayer with
Silicone and pressure bleed everything. That way you get the Alcohol
out of the system and you are set. I can't imagine dumping a gallon or
so of perfectly good Silicone at $100/gal through the brake system just
to clean it out.
Dave
On Wed, 30 Jun 1999 21:59:06 EDT WILAX@aol.com writes:
>Dean,
>
>I am about to embark on the same project but with my '69 Corvette.
>The
>calipers were replaced 18 years ago but the system was not changed to
>silicone. The calipers are all sticking. I am going to have all the
>calipers sleeved with stainless steel and then change the fluid over
>to Si.
>I will also take the opportunity to change all rubber hoses and one of
>the
>steel lines that was improperly replaced years ago.
>
>I just purchased AAWonder and read the exact same information you did
>about
>flushing with alcohol. I have never tried the procedure but it has
>been done
>by the Corvette geeks out there. As a group they tend to go overboard
>on
>everything. The result is peace of mind knowing you got most of the
>old
>fluid and gunk out. But, it is indeed a bunch of work and, like one
>of the
>responders said, you can get really good results from an extensive
>re-fill/bleed session without the alcohol flush. My gut reaction is
>that if
>you are doing the jeep and the system is in good shape there is no
>need to
>flush (with alcohol). Just refill and do a very extensive bleed so
>you are
>sure most of the wheel cylinders are flushed of old DOT fluid. Are
>your
>lines and hoses in good shape? That ultimately will determine your
>results
>years down the road (no pun here). Lines full of crud will get fuller
>of
>crud regardless of fluid. Clean lines are happy lines.
>
>You will probably see reference to "mixing DOT fluid with Si fluid".
>This is
>a controvercial subject and I have tried to collect as much info as I
>could.
>Bottom line? I have a test report by GM somewhere in my files or in
>the
>"Corvette Restorer" magazine that gave results of mixed fluids
>(mainly due
>to residue from the change-over) and overall the benefits of silicone
>were
>fully seen. Ideal? no. Real world good? Yes.
>
>Thank goodness, last year I replaced every line, hose, copper washer,
>wheel
>cylinder and master cylinder in my 42GPW and filled the system with
>Silicone.
> I look forward to 20+ years of trouble free stopping. FWIW, I did
>the same
>thing 17 years ago but used Castrol LMA (normal DOT3) fluid. The jeep
>wasn't
>used much and finally sat (indoors the entire 17 years) for 4 years
>before I
>started re-rebuilding the thing. It was an ugly scene when I removed
>the
>wheel cylinders and master cylinder only to find they were encrusted
>with
>rust and not re-buildable.
>
>Tom
>MVPA #4317
>'42 GPW
>'52 M38 (enroute)
>
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