>
>
> Pulling a stuck Blazer (CUCV??) out of the mud last
> weekend we had to
> use 3 snatch blocks (block and tackle in MV
> terminology) with an 8000#
> winch (that's 32,000# of pulling force).
> Straightened one tow hook,
> broke the other in half, pulled the rear crossmember
> out of the frame
> and then finally pulled him out.
++++++++++++++++++++
Good time to mention using highest quality parts here, they WILL be
overloaded, remember you're in a kind of desperate situation here,
you'll be tempted to try too hard. Get hooks from the people who sell
crane equipment, should say Crosby or such on them.
Took eight hours
> altogether. The mud
> hole didn't look that deep.
++++++++++++++
Oh boy!! Fun!!
> Later,
> Ben.
> (no MV's yet but 5 jeeps, 3 chevs, and 2 eagle
> wagons - 5 ton coming
> soon)
++++++++++++=
You can break big expensive stuff then!
>
> PS on easy pulls I prefer not to use a snatch block
> because of the speed
> decrease and the additional cable that has to be
> respooled afterwards.
> I'll generally attempt without one first and if the
> winch stalls out add
> a snatch block, if it happens again add a second one
> etc...
++++++++++++++++++
Think about this again. The winch gets the most power when the drum is
EMPTY, on the first wrap of cable. Sometimes a snatch block will use
up that extra cable AND keep excessive wear on the equipment down.
That's an
> electric winch though, I wouldn't want to break a
> shear pin, add a
> snatch block, break another shear pin, add another
> snatch block...
+++++++++++++++
Good point, you get no notice of a shear pin failing. With a 302
cu.in. engine providing power you won't even hear the engine bog down,
like someone said earlier if you're inside the cab THEN you can hear
the groaning and straining, then you get an idea of how much is too
much but only if you have experience with that truck.
Joe F.
__________________________________________________
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